SCENERY OF THE APURE. | 215 
At sunrise, the lodgers took leave of Don Ignacio 
and his lady, and proceeded on their voyage. The 
weather was a little cooler, the thermometer having 
fallen from 86° to 75°, but the temperature of the 
river continued at 79° or 80°. One might imagine 
that on smooth ground, where no eminence can be 
distinguished, the stream would have hollowed out 
an even bed for itself; but this is by no means the 
ease; the two banks not opposing equal resistance 
to the water. Below the Joval the mass of the cur- 
rent is a little wider, and forms a perfectly straight 
channel, margined on either side by lofty trees. It 
was here about 290 yards broad. They passed a 
low island densely covered by flamingoes, roseate 
spoonbills, herons, and water-hens, which presented 
a most diversified mixture of colours. On the right 
bank they found a little Indian mission, consisting 
of sixteen huts constructed of palm-leaves, and inha- 
bited by a tribe of the Guamoes. These Christians 
were unable to furnish them with the provisions 
which they wanted, but hospitably offered them dried 
fish and water. The night was spent on a bare and 
very extensive beach. The forest being impenetrable, 
they had great difficulty in obtaining dry wood to 
light fires for the purpose of keeping off the wild 
beasts. But the night was calm, with beautiful 
moonlight. Finding no tree on the banks, they stuck 
their oars in the sand, and suspended their hammocks 
upon them. About eleven there arose in the wood so 
terrific a noise that it was impossible to sleep. The 
Indians distinguished the cries of sapajous, alouates, 
jaguars, cougars, pecaris, sloths, carassows, panakas, 
and other gallinaceous birds. When the tigers ap- 
proached the edge of the forest, a dog which the 
