MISSION OF ATURES. 939 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
Voyage up the Orinoco continued. 
Mission of Atures—Epidemic Fevers—Black Crust of Granitic 
Rocks—Causes of Depopulation of the Missions—Falls of Apures 
—Scenery—Anecdote of a Jaguar—Domestic Animals—Wild 
Man of the Woods—Mosguitoes and other poisonous Insects— 
Mission and Cataracts of Maypures—Scenery—Inhabitants— 
Spice-trees—San Fernando de Atabapo—San Baltasar—The 
Mother’s Rock—Vegetation—Dolphins—San Antonio de Javi- 
. ta—Indians—Elastic Gum—Serpents—Portage of the Pimichin 
—Arrival at the Rio Negro, a Branch of the Amazon—Ascent 
of the Casiquiare. 
LzeAvine the island of Panumana at an early hour 
the navigators continued to ascend the Orinoco, the 
scenery on which became more interesting the near- 
er they approached the great cataracts. The sky 
was in part obscured, and lightnings flashed among 
the dense clouds ; but no thunder was heard. On 
the western bank of the river they perceived the fires 
of an encampment of Guahiboes, to intimidate whom 
some shots were discharged by the direction of the 
missionary. In the evening they arrived at the foot 
of the great fall, and passed the night at the mission 
of Atures in its neighbourhood. The flat savannah 
which surrounds the village seemed to Humboldt 
to have formerly been the bed of the Orinoco. 
This station was found to be in a deplorable 
state, the Indians having gradually deserted it 
until only forty-seven remained. At its founda- 
2 
