6 



PRE FACE 



succeed any where but in a clay, a very arid, or very wet location. That which is preferable, however, above 



all others is a light, rich, sandy loam. 



The Quince flourishes most in a moist soil that is rich and friable, but readily accommodates itself to any 

 upland soil that is not dry and sandy, they require however to be constantly cultivated to insure a thrifty 

 growth and large fruit. Orchards of this fruit, located near the sea shore, or in any location where they have 

 a humid atmosphere, are found to produce very large fruit and abundant crops. 



The Grape requires a deep friable soil, and an exposure in accordance to the class to which it belongs, the 

 foreign varieties alone requiring a particularly warm location. No fruit will admit of such plentiful manurings 

 as this, provided it be properly applied, and the produce of fruit will be therebyjmmensely increased, and those 

 who say the developement produced is in wood without fruit evince great ignorance. Decomposed vege- 

 table or animal manures, and above all the blood of cattle from the butcher's stall, plentifully and frequently 

 mingled with the earth at a short distance from the main stalk of the vine, will cause a degree of vigor and 

 productiveness that will astonish all who have not witnessed their effects — In regard to pruning, the Ameri- 

 can varieties simply require such thinning out during the winter, as is necessary to prevent the branches in- 

 juring each other by contact, and the removal of such weak spurs as are immature and imperfect; but no 

 fear snould be indulged that the vine, if in a good soil, is not capable of maturing its fruit on any extent of 

 branches it may naturally produce, as among the most productive vines found in Carolina, there are many 

 instances where a single vine covers an acre. Summer pruning is only called for in locations where the vines 

 are confined in too narrow limits, and then but very partially, as any considerable pruning will cause the 

 fruit to turn black and fall off* and even cutting off' the leaves will prevent the maturity of the fruit, as they 

 are the conductors of the essential nutriment from the atmosphere to the fruit and to the whole plant. The 

 foreign varieties being natives of a much milder climate require considerable pruning, and but a moderate 

 proportion of the vigorous shoots should be allowed to remain, it being necessary in this case to substitute 

 skill and artificial culture in order to remedy the inappropriateness of climate. — The most delicate foreign 

 varieties do not succeed in this latitude except under glass, but in that way they ripen well and are exceed- 

 ingly productive. 



Raspberries. — These require the shelter afforded by a hedge or fence to protect them from the too power- 

 ful rays of the sun. The soil should be a light sandy loam, perfectly friable and well manured. They should 

 be planted in double rows twelve inches asunder, and running east and west, as in that case each row will 

 serve in a measure to shelter the next one from the sun. The double rows should not be more than three feet 

 apart, and the plants when first set out eighteen inches from each other, and after which they may be allowed 

 to run together, and they will be found most productive, and the fruit larger, when tbey are thus allowed to 

 partially shade each other. The rows should be supported by a slight railing at each side, or by cord at- 

 tached to stakes or poles at suitable distances. The Red and White Antwerp, and Barnet varieties require 

 in this latitude to be protected in winter by bending the shoots down near the ground, and then covering 

 them with a few inches of earth, litter, or leaves. The latter is preferable but will require a slight covering 

 of earth over them to retain them in their position. The Franconia is similar to the Red Antwerp in size and 

 quality, but requires no protection. The Victoria, Fastolf, Magnum Bonum white, Cox's Honey, Spring- 

 grove, and Bromley Hill, are equal or superior in quality to the Antwerp varieties, and more hardy and pro- 

 ductive. No. 1, 2 and 3 are the well known native varieties and very productive. These are not propagated 

 by suckers as the European varieties are, but throw down the ends of their summer shoots to the earth, 

 which become rooted and form new planes. In order to have good autumnal crops from the twice bearing 

 kinds, they should be cut off near the ground in the winter or at the opening of spring, as it is the new shoots 

 which produce the second or late crop. The extremities of the young shoots should be pinched off in June, 

 which will advance the development of the flowers and fruit. All the varieties should have the weak and 

 useless shoots trimmed out in the spring, and the earth well dug and manured. 



Tie Gooseberry and Currant, require a rich, friable soil, which should be well cultivated and manured. 

 The Gooseberry will grow vigorously and produce very fine fruit if planted at the north side of a paling or 

 open fence and about two feet distant from it, or if planted beneath the partial shelter of a peach or plum 

 orchard, as the full rays of the sun burn the fruit and arrest its growth. Both Gooseberries and Currants should 

 be pruned in autumn and the weak shoots cut away, and this is the proper period for digging around them, 

 and for enriching them where the soil requires it. 



Strawberries flourish most in a rich friable loam that retains moisture.- A sandy soil may cause earlier 

 maturity, but the crop will be deficient. They should be planted in April or September. The beds should 

 be about four feet wide and the plants placed about 10 or 12 inches apart each way therein, and it is much the 

 best course in our climate to let them run together, as they then afford shelter to each otherfrom the too pow- 

 erful rays of the sun. New beds should be formed and the old ones broken up every second year. 



The silly twattle about male and female plants is calculated to grossly deceive the public, who cannot do 

 worse than adopt any course in accordance with the suggestions arising from such ignorance. The difficul- 

 ty as to the non-production of any variety of the Strawberry, does not consist in the deficiency, but in the 

 peculiar formation of its organs. The form and position of the stamens may be divided into those which 

 are superior or elevated above the stiles, and those which are inferior or lower than the stiles. If they occu- 

 py the former position, both the sexual organs may be deemed properly placed, and the flowers will yield 

 fruit. But if the male organs are inferior, the pollen cannot fall upon the stiles, and they mostly prove bar- 

 ren. The simple course therefore is this. Where a plant is strongly pistillate, as the Hovey's Seedling, and 

 many others are, with the stamens so inferior or so much below the stiles as to be generally ineffective, it is 

 rendered requisite to plant one row in 4 or 5, or to plant intervening beds, of some other variety that is strong- 

 ly staminate, the pollen from which will be conveyed by the ordinary means to the pistillate plants, and 

 thereby insure a full crop. This very easy course, based on common sense, will set at rest all the silly 

 ideas which have been so frequently advanced about male and female strawberries. 



Note. For ample directions in regard to every department of Horticulture, reference can be made to the 

 Treatises named at page 49 of this Catalogue and to the Manual below mentioned. 



A Manual containing ample directions for the selection of soils and the culture of the various Trees, &c. 

 will be sent to every purchaser. 



Winter Protection. — Wherever it is stated that particular trees and shrubs require "a slight protection," 

 reference is of course intended to the severe climate of this locality, and in such cases the trees or shrubs 

 should be well bound in straw, and the earth should be raised around their base, and where there is increased 

 danger, it would in addition be well to have a barrel placed over each, or where too large, a frame of rough 

 boards could be made over them. If they are low shrubs or vines, the proper course is to coil them on the 

 earth, and cover them with a foot of mould or leaves. Tender herbaceous plants should be covered with 

 leaves a foot in depth. 



