8 
YEARLING TREES INTENDED FoR Pyramips.—Some of these may havea few side branches, 
the smallest of which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and best 
placed. In other respects they will be pruned as directed for trees of two years’ growth. 
Those having no side branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production of 
a tier of branches within six inches or less of the ground. A strong yearling, four to six 
feet, may be cut back about half, and weaker ones more than that. It is better to cut too 
low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough, the pyra- 
midal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 
3d. PLANTING.—Dig holes in the first place, large enough to admit the roots of the tree 
to spread cut in their natural position.» Then, having the tree pruned as above directed, 
let one person hold it in an upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully 
putting the finest and the best from the surface in among the roots, filling every interstice, 
and bringing every root in contact with the soil. When the earth is nearly filled in, a 
pail of water may be thrown on to settle and wash in the earth around the roots; then 
fill in the remainder, and tread gently with the foot. The use of water is seldom neces- 
sary, except in dry weather, early in fall or late in spring. Guard against planting too 
deep ; the trees, after the ground settles, should stand in this respect as they did in the 
Nursery. Trees on dwarf stocks should stand so that all the stock be under the ground, 
and xo more. In very dry, gravelly ground, the holes should be dug twice the usual size 
and depth, and filled in with good loamy soil. 
4th. STAKING.—TIf trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be 
planted with the tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. 
A piece of matting or cloth may be put between the tree and the stake. 
5th. MULCHING.—When the tree is planted, throw around it as far as the roots 
extend, and a foot beyond, 5 to 6 inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particu- 
larly necessary in dry ground, and is highly advantageous everywhere, both in spring 
and fall planting. It prevents the ground from baking or cracking, and maintains an 
equal temperature about the roots. 
6th. AFTER CULTURE.—The grass should not be allowed to grow around young 
trees after being planted, as it stunts their growth and utterly ruins them. The ground 
should be kept clean and loose around them, until at least they are of bearing size. 
TREATMENT OF TREES THAT HAVE BEEN FROZEN IN THE PACKAGES, OR RECEIVED DURING 
FROSTY WEATHER.—Place the packages, unopened, in a cellar or some such place, cool, but 
free from frost, until perfectly thawed, when they can be unpacked, and either planted or 
placed in a trench, until convenient to plant. Treated thus, they will not be injured by 
the freezing. Trees procured in the fall for spring planting, should be laid in trenches in 
a slanting position to avoid the winds; the situation should also be sheltered and the soil 
dry. A mulching on the roots and a few evergreen boughs over the tops, will afford 
good protection. 
DISTANCE BETWEEN TREES IN PLANTATIONS. 
Sranparp Appres, 30 feet apart each way. In poor soils, 25 feet may be enough. 
SranparD Pears AnD Cuerrtes, 20 feet apart each way. Cherries will do at 18 feet, 
and the Dwarf growing sorts, Dukes and Morellos, even at 16 feet. 
Sranparp Prums, Peacnes, Apricots, AND NecTarInes, 16 to 18 feet apart each way. 
Qutnces, 10 to 12 feet apart each way. 
PyRAMIDAL APPLES, PEARS, CHERRIES, AND Piums, 10 feet apart each way. The greater 
distance is better where land is not scarce. 
Dwarr AppLes, (bushes,) 6 feet apart. 
