Came ELILWANGER & BARRY’S 
HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, &c. 

We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree 
Planting, but simply a few hints on the more important operations. Every man who 
purchases a bill of trees, should put himself in possession of ‘‘ THE Frurr GARDEN,” 
or some other treatise on tree culture, that will furnish him with full and reliable 
instructions on the routine of management. Transplanting is to be considered under 
the following heads: 4 
tstt ad, PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.—For fruit trees the soil should be 
dry, either naturally or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive 
on asoil constantly saturated with stagnant moisture. It should also be well prepared 
by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using the subsoil plow after the common one, 
at the second plowing. On new, fresh lands, manuring will be unnecessary; but on 
lands exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy 
crops of clover, or well decomposed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of 
fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as for a crop of wheat, corn, or 
potatoes. 
2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.—In regard to this important 
operation, there are more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general 
thing, trees are placed in the ground precisely as they are sent from the Nursery. In 
removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, a portion of the roots are 
broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of 
the tree is deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, 
form and condition of the tree, as follows: 
STANDARD ORCHARD TREES.—These, as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to 
seven feet in height, with naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top 
forming a head. These branches should be all cut back to within three or four buds of 
their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, and enables the remaining buds 
to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound 
wood. In case of older trees of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; as a 
general thing it will be safe to shorten all the previous years’ shoots to three or four 
buds at their base, and where the branches are very numerous some may be Cut out 
entirely. 
DWARF OR PYRAMIDAL TREES, ON THE QUINCE Stock, if of two or three years’ 
growth, with a number of side branches, will require to be pruned with a two-fold 
object in view, viz: The growth of the tree and the desired form. The branches 
must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, 
those above them shorter, and the upper ones around the leading shoot to within two 
or three buds of their base. The leader itself must be shortened back one-half or 
more. When trees have been dried or injured much by exposure, the pruning must 
be closer than if in good order. 
YEARLING TREES UPON QUINCE StTocK INTENDED FOR PyRAmIDS.—Some of 
these may have a few side branches, the smallest of which should be cut clean away, 
reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other respects they will be pruned 
as directed for trees of two years’ growth. 
Those having no side branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production 
of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the ground. A strong yearling, four to 
six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than that. It is better 
to cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough, 
the pyramidal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 
