CATALOGUE OF FRUITS. 



HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, &c, 



We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree 

 Planting, but simply a few hints on the more important operations. Every man who 

 pm-chases a bill of trees, should put himself in possession of "The Fruit Garden," 

 or some other treatise on tree culture, that will furnish him with full and reliable 

 instructions on the routine of management. Transplanting is to be considered under 

 the following heads: 



1st. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.— For fruit trees the soil should be 

 dry, either naturally or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive 

 on a soil constantly saturated with stagnant moisture. It should also be well prepared 

 by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using the subsoil plow after the common one, 

 at the second plowing. On new^ fresh lands, manuring w^ill be unnecessary; but on 

 lands exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy 

 crops of clover, or well decomposed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth 

 of fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as for a crop of wheat, corn, or 

 potatoes. 



2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.— In regard to this important 

 operation, there are more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general 

 thing, trees are placed in the ground precisely as they are sent from the Nursery. In 

 removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, a portion of the roots are 

 broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of 

 the tree is deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, 

 form and condition of the tree, as follows: 



Standard Orchard Trees. — These, as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to 

 seven feet in height, with naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top 

 forming a head. These branches should be all cut back to within three or four buds of 

 their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, and enables the remaining buds 

 to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound 

 wood. In case of older trees of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; as a 

 general thing it will be safe to shorten all the previous years' shoots to three or four 

 buds at their base, and where the branches are very numerous some may be cut out 

 entirely. 



Dwarf or Pyramidal Trees, on the Quince Stock, if of two or three years' 

 growth, with a number of side branches, will require to be pruned with a two-fold 

 object in view, viz: The growth of the tree and the desired form. The branches 

 must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, 

 those above them shorter, and the upper ones around the leading shoot to within two 

 or three buds of their base. The leader itself must be shortened back one-half or 

 more. When trees have been dried or injured much by exposure, the pruning must 

 be closer than if in good order. 



Yearling Trees Upon Quince Stock Intended for Pyramids. — Some of 

 these may have a few side branches, the smallest of which should be cut clean away, 

 reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other respects they should be 

 pruned as directed for trees of two years' growth. 



Those having no side branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production 

 of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the ground. A strong yearling, four to 

 six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than that. It is better 

 to cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough 

 the pyramidal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 



