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FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 
HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 
We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree Planting, but simply a 
few hints on the more important operations. Every man who purchases a bill of trees should put himself in 
possession of “ THE FRUIT GARDEN ” (see third page of cover), or some other treatise on tree culture, that 
will furnish him with full and reliable instructions on the routine of management. Transplanting is to be 
considered under the following heads: 
Ist. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.—For fruit trees the soil should be dry, either natural 
or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive on a soil constantly saturated with stagnant 
moisture. It should also be well prepared by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using the subsoil plow after 
the common one at the second plowing. On new, fresh lands, manuring will be unnecessary; but on lands 
exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy crops of clover, or weli decom- 
posed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as 
for a crop of wheat, corn, or potatoes. 
2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.—In regard to this important operation, there are 
more fatal errors committed than in any other. Asa general thing, trees are planted in the ground precisely as 
they are sent from the Nursery. In removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, a portion of the 
roots are broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of the tree is 
deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form, and condition of the tree, as 
follows : 
Standard Orchard Trees.—These, as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to seven feet in height, with 
naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top forming a head. These branches should all be 
cut back to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, and enables the 
remaining buds to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound wood. In 
case of older trees, of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; as a general thing it will be safe to shorten 
all the previous year’s shoots to three or four buds at their base, and where the branches are very numerous 
some may be cut out entirely. 
Dwarf or Pyramidal Trees, if of two or three years’ growth, with a number of side branches, will require 
to be pruned with a two-fold object in view; viz., the growth of the tree and the desired form. The branches 
must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, those above them shorter, 
and the upper ones around the leading shoots to within two or three buds of their base. The leader itself 
must be shortened back one-half or mor2. When trees have been dried or injured much by exposure, the 
pruning must be closer than if in good order. 
Yearling Trees Intended for Pyramids.—Some of these may have a few side branches, the smallest of 
which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other respects they 
should be pruned as directed for trees of two years’ growth. Those having no szde branches should be cut 
back so far as to insure the production of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the ground. A strong 
yearling, four to six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than that. It is better to 
cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough the pyramidal form can- 
not afterwards be perfected. 
34. PLANTING.—Dig holes in the first place large enough to admit the roots of the tree to spread 
out in their natural position; then, having the tree pruned as before directed, let one person hold it in an 
upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest and the best from the surface 
in among the roots, filling every interstice, and bringing every root in contact with the soil. When the earth 
is nearly filled in, a pail of water may be thrown on to settle and wash in the earth around the roots; then fill 
in the remainder and tread gently with the foot. The use of water is seldom necessary, except in dry weather 
early in fall or late in spring. Guard against planting /vo deep ; the trees, after the ground settles, should 
stand in this respect as they did in the nursery. Trees on dwarf stock should stand so that a// the stock be 
under the ground, and zo more. In very dry, gravelly ground the holes should be dug twice the usual size 
and depth, and filled in with good loamy soil. 
4th. STAKING.—If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be planted with the 
tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. A piece of matting or cloth may be 
put between the tree and the stake. 
5th. MULCHING.—When the tree is planted throw around it as far as the roots extend, and a foot 
beyond, five or six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particularly necessary in dry ground, and 
is highly advantageous everywhere both in spring and fall planting. It prevents the ground from baking or 
cracking, and maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 
6th. AFTER-CULTURE.—The grass should not be allowed to grow around young trees after being 
planted, as it stunts their growth. The ground should be kept clean and loose around them until, at least, 
they are of bearing size. 
Treatment of Trees that have been Frozen in the Packages or Received during Frosty 
Weather.—Place the packages, unopened, in a cellar or some such place, cool, but free from frost, until 
