CATALOGUE OF FRUITS. ¢ 
Those having no side branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production 
of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the ground. A strony yearling, four 
to six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than that. It is 
better to cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low 
enough, the pyramidal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 
3d. PLANTING.—Dig holes in the first place, large enough to admit the roots of 
the tree to spread out in their natural position. Then, having the tree pruned as 
above directed, let one person hold it in an upright position, and the other shovel in 
the earth, carefully putting the finest and the best from the surface in among the 
roots, filling every interstice, and bringing every root in contact with the soil. When 
the earth is nearly filled in, a pail of water may be thrown on to settle and wash in 
the earth around the roots ; then fill in the remainder, and tread gently with the 
foot. The use of water is seldom necessary, except in dry weather, early in fall or 
late in spring. Guard against planting too deep; the trees, after the ground settles, 
should stand in this respect as they did in the Nursery. Trees on dwarf stocks 
should stand so that all the stock be under the ground, and no more. In very dry, 
gravelly ground, the holes should be dug twice the usual size and depth, and filled in 
with good loamy soil. 
4th. STAKING.—If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be 
planted with the tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. 
A piece of matting or cloth may be put between the tree and the stake. 
5th. MULCHING.—When the tree is planted, throw around it as far as the roots 
extend, and a foot beyond, five to six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This 
is particularly necessary in dry ground, and is highly advantageous everywhere, both 
in spring and fall planting. It prevents the ground from baking or cracking, and 
maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 
6th. AFTER CULTURE.—The grass should not be allowed to grow around 
young trees aftec being planted, as it stunts their growth and utterly ruins them. 
The ground should be kept clean and loose around them, until, at least, they are of 
bearing size. 
TREATMENT OF TREES THAT HAVE BEEN FROZEN IN THE PACKAGES, OR RECEIVED 
DURING Frosty WrEATHER.—Place the packages, unopened, in a cellar or some such 
place, cool, but free from frost, until perfectly thawed, when they can be unpacked. 
and either planted or placed in a trench, until convenient to plant. Treated thus, 
they will not be injured by the freezing. Trees procured in the fall for spring 
planting, should be laid in trenches in a slanting position to avoid the winds; the 
situation should also be sheltered and the soil dry. A mulching on the roots and a 
few evergreen boughs over the tops, will afford good protection. 
DISTANCE BETWEEN TREES IN PLANTATIONS. 
STANDARD APPLES, 30 feet apart each way. In poor soils, 25 feet may be enough. 
STANDARD PEARS AND CHERRIES, 20 feet apart each way. Cherries will do at 18 
feet, and the dwarf growing sorts, Dukes and Morellos, even at 16 feet. 
STANDARD PiuMs, PEACHES, APRICOTS AND NECTARINES, 16 to 18 feet apart each 
way. 
QuincEs, 10 to 12 feet apart each way. 
PYRAMIDAL APPLES, PEARS, CHERRIES AND Prius, 10 to 12 feet apart each way. 
The greater distance is better where land is not scarce. 
Dwarr Appuzs (bushes), 6 feet apart. 
CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES AND RAspBERRIES, 3 to 4 feet apart. 
