24 



HA WAIL 



[LETTER II. 



and verandahs, it seems as lively and free-and-easy as a place 

 can be, pervaded by the kindliness and bonhomie which 

 form important items in my first impressions of the islands. 

 The hotel was lately built by government at a cost of $120,000, 

 a sum which forms a considerable part of that token of an 

 advanced civilization, a National Debt. The minister whose 

 scheme it was seems to be severely censured on account of it, 

 but undoubtedly it brings strangers and their money into the 

 kingdom, who would have avoided it had they been obliged as 

 formerly to cast themselves on the hospitality of the residents. 

 The present proprietor has it rent-free for a term of years, but 

 I fear that it is not likely to prove a successful speculation 

 either for him or the government. I dislike health resorts, and 

 abhor this kind of life, but for those who like both, I cannot 

 imagine a more fascinating residence. The charges are $15 a 

 week, or $3 a day, but such a kindly, open-handed system 

 prevails, that I am not conscious that I am paying anything ! 

 This sum includes hot and cold plunge baths ad libitum, justly 

 regarded as a necessity in this climate. 



Dr. McGrew has hope that our invalid will rally in this 

 healing, equable atmosphere. Our kind fellow-passengers are 

 here, and take turns in watching and fanning him. Through 

 the half-closed jalousies we see breadfruit trees, delicate tama- 

 rinds and algarobas, fan-palms, date-palms, and bananas, and 

 the deep blue Pacific gleams here and there through the 

 plumage of the cocoanut trees. A soft breeze, scented with a 

 slight aromatic odour, wanders in at every opening, bringing 

 with it, mellowed by distance, the hum and clatter of the busy 

 cicada. The nights are glorious, and so absolutely still, that 

 even the feathery foliage of the algaroba is at rest. The stars 

 seem to hang among the trees like lamps, and the crescent 

 moon gives more light than the full moon at home. The 

 evening of the day we landed, parties of officers and ladies 

 mounted at the door, and with much mirth disappeared on 

 moonlight rides, and the white robes of flower-crowned girls 

 gleamed among the trees, as groups of natives went by speaking 

 a language which sounded more like the rippling of water than 

 human speech. Soft music came from the ironclads in the 

 harbour, and from the royal band at the king's palace, and a 

 rich scent of dewy blossoms filled the delicious air. These 

 are indeed the "isles of Eden/' "the sun lands," musical with 

 beauty. They seem to welcome us to their enchanted shores. 

 Everything is new but nothing strange ; for as I enjoyed the 



