letter in,] A REMARKABLE ARRANGEMENT. 



3i 



tow-boat. She looks ill-found, too ; I saw two essential pieces 

 of tackle give way as they were hoisting the main sail. She has 

 a small saloon with a double tier of berths, besides transoms, 

 which give accommodation on the level of the lower berth. 

 There is a stern cabin, which is a prolongation of the saloon, 

 and not in any way separated from it. There is no ladies' 

 cabin ; but sex, race, and colour are included in a promiscuous 

 arrangement. 



Miss Karpe, my travelling companion, and two agreeable 

 ladies, were already in their berths very sick, but I did not get 

 into mine because a cockroach, looking as large as a mouse, 

 occupied the pillow, and a companion not much smaller was 

 roaming over the quilt without any definite purpose. I can't 

 vouch for the accuracy of my observation, but it seemed to me 

 that these tremendous creatures were dark red, with eyes like 

 lobsters', and antennae two inches long. They looked capable 

 of carrying out the most dangerous and inscrutable designs. 

 I called the Malay steward ; he smiled mournfully, but spoke 

 reassuringly, and pledged his word for their innocuousness, but 

 I never can believe that they are not the enemies of man • and 

 I lay down on the transom, not to sleep, however, for it seemed 

 essential to keep watch on the proceedings of these formidable 

 vermin. 



The grotesqueness of the arrangements of the berths and 

 their occupants grew on me during the night, and the climax 

 was put upon it when a gentleman coming down in the early 

 morning asked me if I knew that I was using the Governor of 

 Maui's head for a footstool, this portly native " Excellency " 

 being in profound slumber on the forward part of the transom. 

 This diagram represents one side of the saloon and the 

 " happy family " of English, Chinamen, Hawaiians, and 

 Americans : — 



Governor Lyrnan. 



Miss Karpe. | 



Miss . 



Afong. | 



Vacant. | 



Miss . 



Governor Nahaolelua | 



Myself. | 



An Hawaiian. 



I noticed, too, that there were very few trunks and portman- 

 teaus, but that the after end of the saloon was heaped with 

 Mexican saddles and saddlebags, which I learned too late were 

 the essential gear of every traveller on Hawaii. 



At five this morning we were at anchor in the roads of 

 Lahaina, the chief village on the mountainous island of Maui. 



