LETTER VII. 



Hilo Homes— Hilo Gossip— Foreign Life— The National Dish— Pelikia 

 Aloha— Surf-board Riding. 



Hilo, Hawaii. 



The white population here, which constitutes " society," is 

 very small. There are two venerable missionaries, " Father 

 Coan " and " Father Lyman," the former pastor of a large 

 native congregation, which, though much shrunk, is not only 

 self-sustaining, but contributes $1200 a year to foreign missions, 

 and the latter, though very old and frail, the indefatigable head 

 of an industrial school for native young men. Their houses 

 combine the trimness of New England, with the luxuriance of 

 the tropics ; they are cool retreats, embowered among bread- 

 fruit, tamarind, and bamboo, through whose graceful leafage 

 the blue waters of the bay are visible. Innumerable exotics 

 are domesticated round these fair homesteads. Two of " Father 

 Lyman's " sons are influential residents, one being the Lieu- 

 tenant-Governor of the island. Other sons of former missionaries 

 are settled here in business, and there are a few strangers who 

 have been attracted hither. Dr. Wetmore, formerly of the 

 mission, is a typical New Englander of the old orthodox 

 school. It is pleasant to see him brighten into almost youthful 

 enthusiasm on the subject of Hawaiian ferns. My host, a 

 genial, social, intelligent American, is sheriff of Hawaii, post- 

 master, &c, and with his charming wife (a missionary's 

 daughter), and some friends who live with them, make their 

 large house a centre of kindliness, friendliness, and hospitality. 



There are hardly any young ladies, and very few young men, 

 but plenty of rosy, blooming children, who run about barefoot 

 all the year. Besides the Hilo residents, there are some 

 planters' families within seven miles, who come in to sewing 

 circles, church, &c. There is a small class of reprobate white 

 men who have ostracised themselves by means of drink and 

 bad morals, and are a curse to the natives. The half whites, 

 among whom " Bill Ragsdale " is the leading spirit, are not 

 numerous. Hilo has no carriage roads and no carriages : every 



