LETTER XI.] 



THE PERIL OVER. 



"3 



tackle for getting himself across, intending to join us, and 

 remain with us till the rivers fell. The presence of a respon- 

 sible white man seemed a rest at once. W e had several more 

 gulches to cross, but none of them were dangerous ; and we 

 rode the last seven miles at a great pace, though the mire and 

 water were often up to the horses' knees, and came up to 

 Onomea at full gallop, with spirit and strength enough for 

 riding other twenty miles. Dry clothing, hot baths, and good 

 tea followed delightfully upon our drowning ride. I remained 

 over Sunday at Onomea, and yesterday rode here with a native 

 in heavy rain, and received a warm welcome. Our adventures 

 are a nine days' wonder, and every one says that if we had had 

 a white man or an experienced native with us, we should never 

 have been allowed to attempt the perilous ride. I feel very 

 thankful that we are living to tell of it, and that Deborah is 



not only not worse but considerably better. E will expect 



some reflections ; but none were suggested at the time, and I 

 will not now invent what I ought to have thought and felt. 



Due honour must be given to the Mexican saddle. Had 

 I been on a side-saddle, and encumbered with a riding-habit, 

 I should have been drowned. I feel able now to ride anywhere 

 and any distance upon it, while Miss Karpe, who began by 

 being much stronger than I was, has never recovered from the 

 volcano ride, and seems quite ill. 



Last night Kilauea must have been tremendously active. At 

 ten p.m., from the upper verandah, we saw the whole western 

 sky fitfully illuminated, and the glare reddened the snow which 

 is lying on Mauna Loa, an effect of fire on ice which can rarely 

 be seen. 



I. L. B. 



