LETTER XV. 



An Imitation Gale — Leeward Hawaii — A Heathen Temple — The Waimea 

 Plains— The Early Settlers — Native Criticism. 



Waimea, Hawaii. 



There is no limit to the oddities of the steam-ship 

 " Kilauea." She lay rolling on the Hilo swell for two hours, 

 and two hours after we sailed her machinery broke down, and 

 we lay-to for five hours, in what they here call a heavy gale and 

 sea. It was a miserable night. No privacy : the saloon both 

 hot and wet, almost every one sick. I lay in my berth in my 

 soaked clothes watching the proceedings of a gigantic cock- 

 roach, and listening, not without amusement, to the awful 

 groans of a Chinaman, and a "rough customer" from Cali- 

 fornia, who occupied the next berths. 



In the middle of the night the water came in great dashes 

 through the skylight upon the table, and soon the saloon was 

 afloat to the depth of from four to six inches. When the 

 " Kilauea " rolled, and the water splashed in simultaneously, 

 we were treated to vigorous " douches," which soon saturated 

 the pillows, mattresses, and our clothing. One sea put out the 

 lamp, and a ship's lantern, making " darkness visible," was 

 swung in its stead. In an English ship there would have been 

 a great fuss and a great flying about of stewards, on pretence 

 of mending matters, but when the passengers shouted for our 

 good steward, the serene creature came in with a melancholy 

 smile on his face, said nothing, but quietly sat down on the 

 transom, with his bare feet in the water, contemplating it with 

 a comic air of helplessness. Breakfast, of course, could not be 

 served, but a plate was put at one end of the table for the 

 silent old Scotch captain, who tucked up his feet and sat with 

 his oilskins and sou'-wester on, while the charming steward, 

 with trousers rolled up to his knees, waded about, pacifying 

 us by bringing us excellent curry as we sat on the edges of 



