LETTER XVIII.] 



A GARDEN PARTY. 



175 



high chief Kalakaua, who was a rival candidate for the throne, 

 being conspicuously resplendent. The basis of the costume 

 appeared to be the Windsor uniform, but it was smothered with 

 epaulettes, cordons, and lace ; and each dignitary has a uniform 

 peculiar to his office, so that the display of gold lace was pro- 

 digious. The chiefs are so raised above the common people in 

 height, size, and general nobility of aspect, that many have 

 supposed them to be of a different race ; and the alii who 

 represented the dwindled order that night were certainly superb 

 enough in appearance to justify the supposition. Beside their 

 splendour and stateliness, the forty officers of the English and 

 American war-ships, though all in full-dress uniform, looked 

 decidedly insignificant ; and I doubt not that the natives who 

 were assembled outside the garden railings in crowds were not 

 behind me in making invidious comparisons. 



Chairs and benches were placed under the beautiful trees, 

 and people grouped themselves on these, and promenaded, 

 flirted, talked politics and gossip, or listened to the royal band, 

 which played at intervals, and played well. The dress of the 

 ladies, whether white or coloured, was both pretty and appro- 

 priate. Most of the younger women were in white, and wore 

 natural flowers in their hair ; and many of the elder ladies wore 

 black or coloured silks, with lace and trains. There were 

 several beautiful leis of the gardenia, which filled all the garden 

 with their delicious odour. Tea and ices were handed round 

 on Sevres china by footmen and pages in appropriate liveries. 

 What a wonderful leap from calabashes and poi, malos and ftaus, 

 to this correct and tasteful civilization ! As soon as the brief, 

 amber twilight of the tropics was over, the garden was suddenly 

 illuminated by myriads of Chinese lanterns, and the effect was 

 bewitching. The upper suite of rooms was thrown open for 

 those who preferred dancing under cover ; but I think that the 

 greater part of the assemblage chose the shady walks and 

 purple night. Supper was served at eleven, and the party broke 

 up soon afterwards ; but I must confess that, charming as it 

 was, I left before eight, for society makes heavier demands on 

 my strength than the rough, open-air life of Hawaii. 



The dwindling of the race is a most pathetic subject. Here 

 is a sovereign chosen amidst an outburst of popular enthusiasm, 

 with a cabinet, a legislature, and a costly and elaborate govern- 

 ing machinery, sufficient in Yankee phrase to " run " an empire 

 of several millions, and here are only 49,000 native Hawaiians ; 

 and if the decrease be not arrested, in a quarter of a century 



