204 



HAWAII. 



[letter XXI. 



tending the coarser, setting the table, trimming the lamps, 

 cutting out and " fixing " all the needlework, besides planning 

 the indoor and outdoor work which the natives are supposed 

 to do. Having related their proficiency in domestic duties, 

 must add that they are splendid horsewomen, one of them 

 an excellent shot, and the other has enough practical know- 

 ledge of seamanship, as well as navigation, to enable her to 

 take a ship round the world ! It is a busy life, owing to the 

 large number of natives daily employed, and the necessity of 

 looking after the native lunas, or overseers. Dr. Smith at 

 Koloa, twenty-two miles off, is the only doctor on the island, 

 and the natives resort to'this house in great numbers for advice 

 and medicine in their many ailments. It is much such a life 

 as_ people lead at Raasay, Applecross, or some other remote 

 Highland place, only that people who come to visit here, 

 unless they ride twenty-two miles, must come to the coast in 

 the Jenny instead of being conveyed by one of David Hutche- 

 son's luxurious steamers. 



We were sitting in the library one morning when Mr. M., 

 of Timaru, N.Z., rode up with an introduction, and was of 

 course cordially welcomed. He goes on to England, where 

 you will doubtless cross- question him concerning my state- 

 ments. During his visit a large party of us made a delightful 

 expedition to the Hanapepe Falls, one of the " lions " of 

 Kauai. It is often considered too " rough " for ladies, and 



when Mrs. and I said we were going, I saw Mr. M. look 



as if he thought we should be a dependent nuisance ; I was 



amused afterwards with his surprise at Mrs. 's courageous 



horsemanship, and at his obvious confusion as to whether he 

 should help us, which question he wisely decided in the 

 negative. 



If "happiness is atmosphere," we were happy. The day 

 was brilliant, and as cool as early June at home, but the sweet, 

 joyous trade-wind could not be brewed elsewhere than on the 

 Pacific. The scenery was glorious, and mountains, trees, 

 frolicsome water, and scarlet birds, all rioted as if in conscious 

 happiness. Existence was a luxury, and reckless riding a mere 

 outcome of the animal spirits of horses and riders, and the 

 thud of the shoeless feet as the horses galloped over the soft 

 grass was sweeter than music. I could hardly hold my horse 

 at all, and down hills as steep as the east side of Arthur's Seat, 

 over knife-like ridges too narrow for two to ride abreast, and 

 along side-tracks only a foot wide, we rode at full gallop, till 



