letter xxi.] INHUMANITY TO HORSES. 



207 



flashed across the shadow, but it was a very lifeless and silent 

 scene. The arches, buttresses, and columns suggest a temple, 

 and the deep tone of the fall is as organ music. It is all beauty, 

 solemnity, and worship. 



It was sad to leave it and to think how very few eyes can 

 ever feast themselves on its beauty. We came back again into 

 gladness and sunshine, and to the vulgar necessity of eating, 

 which the natives ministered to by presenting us with a sub- 

 stantial meal of stewed fowls and sweet potatoes at the nearest 

 cabin. There must have been something intoxicating in the 

 air, for we rode wildly and recklessly, galloping down steep 

 hills (which on principle I object to), and putting our horses 

 to their utmost speed. Mine ran off with me several times, 

 and once nearly upset Mr. M.'s horse, as he probably will tell 

 you. 



The natives annoy me everywhere by their inhumanity to 

 their horses. To-day I became an object of derision to them 

 for hunting for sow-thistles, and bringing back a large bundle 

 of them to my excellent animal. They starve their horses from 

 mere carelessness or laziness, spur them mercilessly, when the 

 jaded, famished things almost drop from exhaustion, ride 

 them with great sores under the saddles, and with their bodies 

 deeply cut with the rough girths ; and though horses are not 

 regarded as more essential in any part of the world, they ne- 

 glect and maltreat them in every way, and laugh scornfully if 

 one shows any consideration for them. Except for short 

 shopping distances in Honolulu, I have never seen a native 

 man or woman walking. They think walking a degradation, 

 and I have seen men take the trouble to mount horses to go 

 100 yards. 



Afterwards we made a three days' expedition into the heart 

 of the nearer mountainous district, attended by seven mounted 

 natives. Mr. K., from whose house we started, has the finest 

 mango grove on the islands. It is a fine foliaged tree, but is 

 everywhere covered with a black blight, which gives the groves 

 the appearance of being in mourning, as the tough, glutinous 

 film covers all the older leaves. The mango is an exotic fruit, 

 and people think a great deal of it, and send boxes of mangoes 

 as presents to their friends. It is yellow, with a reddish 

 bloom, something like a magnum bonum plum, three times 

 magnified. The only way of eating it in comfort is to have a 

 tub of water beside you. It should be eaten in private by any 

 one who wants to retain the admiration of his friends. It 



