230 



HAWAII. 



[letter XXV. 



though the heat was fierce, and the glare from the black lava 

 blinding, I dashed heedlessly down, and in twenty minutes had 

 ridden three miles down a descent of 2000 feet, to find the 

 Kilmiea puffing and smoking with her anchor up j but I was in 

 time, for her friendly clerk, knowing that I was coming, de- 

 tained the scow. You will not wonder at my desperation when 

 I tell you that half-way down, a person called to me, " Mauna 

 Loa is in action ! " 



While I was slipping off the saddle and bridle, Mr. W. 

 arrived with the carpet-bag, yet more over-heated and shaking 

 with exertion than I was, then the Chinaman with a bag of odd- 

 ments, next a native who had picked up my plaid and ferns on 

 the road, and another with my trunk, which he had rescued 

 from the ox-cart ; so I only lost my veil and two brushes, 

 which are irreplaceable here. 



The quiet of the nine hours' trip in the Kilanea restored my 

 equanimity, and prepared me to enjoy the delicious evening 

 which followed. The silver waters of Kawaihae Bay reflected 

 the full moon, the three great mountains of Hawaii were cloud- 

 less as I had not before seen them, all the asperity of the lee- 

 ward shore was softened into beauty, and the long shadows of 

 bending palms were as still and perfect as the palms them- 

 selves. And there was a new sight above the silver water, for 

 the huge dome of Mauna Loa, forty miles away, was burning 

 red and fitfully. Horses and a servant awaited me, and we 

 were soon clattering over the hard sand by the shining sea, 

 and up the ascent which leads to the windy table-lands ot 

 Waimea. The air was like new life. At a height of 500 feet 

 we met the first whiff of the trades, the atmosphere grew cooler 

 and cooler, the night-wind fresher, the moonlight whiter ; wider 

 the sweeping uplands, redder the light of the burning moun- 

 tain, till I wrapped my plaid about me, but still was chilled to 

 the bone, and when the four hours' ride was over, soon after 

 midnight, my limbs were stiff with tropical cold. And this, 

 within 20 of the equator, and only 2500 feet above the fiery 

 sea-shore, with its temperature of 8o°, where Sydney Smith 

 would certainly have desired to " take off his flesh, and sit in 

 his bones ! " 



I delight in Hawaii more than ever, with its unconventional 

 life, great upland sweeps, unexplored forests, riotous breezes, 

 and general atmosphere of freedom, airiness, and expansion. 

 As I find that a lady can travel alone with perfect safety, I have 

 many projects in view, but whatever I do or plan to do, I find 



