LETTER XXVI. 



Alone with Nature — A Light Equipment — Kahele— A Garrulous 

 Assemblage — A Paralysed Village — Hilo. 



"My Camp," Hawaiian Slopes, May 21. 



This is the height of enjoyment in travelling. I have just 

 encamped under a lauhala. tree, with my saddle inverted for a 

 pillow, my horse tied by a long lariat to a guava bush, my gear, 

 saddle-bags, and rations for two days lying about, and my 

 saddle blanket drying in the sun. Overhead the sun blazes, 

 .and casts no shadow ; a few fleecy clouds hover near him, and 

 far below, the great expanse of the Pacific gleams in a deeper 

 blue than the sky. Far above, towers the rugged and snow- 

 patched, but no longer mysterious dome of Mauna Kea ; while 

 everywhere, ravines, woods, waterfalls, and stretches of lawn- 

 like grass delight the eye. All green that I have ever seen, of 

 English lawns in June, or Alpine valleys, seems poor and 

 colourless as compared with the dazzling green of this sixty-five 

 miles. It is a joyous green, a glory. Whenever I look up 

 from my writing, I ask, Was there ever such green ? Was there 

 ever such sunshine? Was there ever such an atmosphere? 

 Was there ever such an adventure ? And Nature — for I have 

 no other companion, and wish for none — answers, " No." The 

 novelty is that I am alone, my conveyance my own horse ; no 

 luggage to look after, for it is all in my saddle-bags ; no guide 

 to bother, hurry, or hinder me ; and with knowledge enough of 

 the country to stop when and where I please. A native guide, 

 besides being a considerable expense, is a great nuisance ; and 

 as the trail is easy to find, and the rivers are low, I resolved 

 for once to taste the delights of perfect independence ! This 

 is a blessed country, for a lady can travel everywhere in abso- 

 lute security. 



My goal is the volcano of Kilauea, with various diverging 



