276 



HAWAII. 



[letter xxix. 



feet in depth, and gives a magnificent view of the whole 

 area, with the pit and the blowing cones. But the region 

 through which the trail led was rather an alarming one, 

 being hollow and porous, all cracks and fissures, nefariously- 

 concealed by scrub and ferns. I found a place, as I thought, 

 free from risk, and gave Kahele a feed of oats on my plaid, 

 but before he had finished them there was a rumbling and 

 vibration, and he went into the ground above his knees, so 

 snatching up the plaid and jumping on him I galloped away, 

 convinced that that crack was following me ! However, either 

 the crack thought better of it, or Kahele' travelled faster, for in 

 another half-hour I arrived where the whole region steams, 

 smokes, and fumes with sulphur, and was kindly welcomed 

 here by Mr. Gilman, where he and the old Chinaman appear 

 to be alone. 



After a seven hours' ride the quiet and the log fire are 

 very pleasant, and the host is a most intelligent and sym- 

 pathising listener. It is a solemn night, for the earth 

 quakes, and the sound of Halemaumau is like the surging of 

 the sea. 



HlLO, June \ lth. 



;Once more I am among palm and mango groves, and 

 friendly faces, and sounds of softer surges than those of 

 Kilauea. I had a dreary ride yesterday, as the rain was 

 incessant, and I saw neither man, bird, or beast the whole 

 way. Kahele was so heavily loaded that I rode the thirty 

 miles at a foot's pace, and he became so tired that I had 

 to walk. 



It has been a splendid week, with every circumstance favour- 

 able, nothing sordid or worrying to disturb the impressions 

 received, kindness and goodwill everywhere, a travelling com- 

 panion whose consideration, endurance, and calmness were 

 beyond all praise, and at the end the cordial welcomes of my 

 Hawaiian " home." 



I. L. B. 



