Part I. 



FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 



HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 



We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree Planting, but simply a 

 few hints on the more important operations. Every man who purchases a bill of trees should put himself in 

 possession of "The Fruit Garden " (see third page of cover), or some other treatise on tree culture, that 

 will furnish him with full and reliable instructions on the routine of management. Transplanting is to be 

 considered under the following heads : 



ist. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. — For fruit trees the soil should be dry, either natural 

 or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive on a soil constantly saturated with stagnant 

 moisture. It should also be well prepared by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using the subsoil plow after 

 the common one at the second plowing. On new, fresh lands, manuring will be unnecessary ; but on lands 

 exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy crops of clover, or well decom- 

 posed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as 

 for a crop of wheat, corn, or potatoes. 



2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.— In regard to this important operation, there are 

 more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general thing, trees are planted in the ground precisely as 

 they are sent from the Nursery. In removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, a portion of the 

 roots are broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of the tree is 

 deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form, and condition of the tree, as 

 follows : 



Standard Orchard Trees. — These, as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to seven feet in height, with 

 naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top forming a head. These branches should all be 

 cut back to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, and enables the 

 remaining buds to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound wood. In 

 case of older trees, of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion ; as a general thing it will be safe to shorten 

 all the previous year's shoots to three or four buds at their base, and where the branches are very numerous 

 some may be cut out entirely. 



Dwarf or Pyramidal Trees, if of two or three years' growth, with a number of side branches, will require 

 to be pruned with a two-fold object in view; viz., the growth of the tree and the desired form. The branches 

 must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, those above them shorter, 

 and the upper ones around the leading shoots to within two or three buds of their base. The leader itself 

 must be shortened back one-half or more. When trees have been dried or injured much by exposure, the 

 pruning must be closer than if in good order. 



Yearling Trees Intended for Pyramids. — -Some of these may have a few side branches, the smallest of 

 which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other respects they 

 should be pruned as directed for trees of two years' growth. Those having no side branches should be cut 

 back so far as to insure the production of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the ground. A strong 

 yearling, four to six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than that. It is better to 

 cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough the pyramidal form can- 

 not afterwards be perfected. 



3d. PLANTING. — Dig holes in the first place large enough to admit the roots of the tree to spread 

 out in their natural position ; then, having the tree pruned as before directed, let one person hold it in an 

 upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest and the best from the surface 

 in among the roots, filling every interstice, and bringing every root in contact with the soil. When the earth 

 is nearly filled in, a pail of water may be thrown on to settle and wash in the earth around the roots ; then fill 

 in the remainder and tread gently with the foot. The use of water is seldom necessary, except in dry weather 

 early in fall or late in spring. Guard against planting too deep ; the trees, after the ground settles, should 

 stand in this respect as they did in the nursery. Trees on dwarf stock should stand so that all the stock be 

 under the ground, and no more. In very dry, gravelly ground the holes should be dug twice the usual size 

 and depth, and filled in with good loamy soil. 



4th. STAKING. — If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be planted with the 

 tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. A piece of matting or cloth may be 

 put between the tree and the stake. 



5th. MULCHING. — When the tree is planted throw around it as far as the roots extend, and a foot 

 beyond, five or six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particularly necessary in dry ground, and 

 is highly advantageous everywhere both in spring and fall planting. It prevents the ground from baking or 

 cracking, and maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 



6th. AFTER-CULTURE. — The grass should not be allowed to grow around young trees after being 

 planted, as it stunts their growth. The ground should be kept clean and loose around them until, at least, 

 they are of bearing size. 



Treatment of Trees that have been Frozen in the Packages or Received during Frosty 

 Weather. — Place the packages, unopened, in a cellar or some such place, cool, but free from frost, until 



