ering or "Mulch" of some description 

 to fall plantings. Loose, light manure 

 is perhaps the best material, though al- 

 most anything which is not too heavy 

 and soggy will answer. It should be 

 applied as soon as the earth has become 

 crusted by freezing and forked into 

 the soil upon the approach of pleasant 

 weather in the spring, when all danger 

 of freezing is over. Do not permit it 

 to remain until the plants have become 

 "started" or made considerable growth; 

 for they will then be more or less 

 damaged when the "digging in" process 

 is performed. The proper distance for 

 placing each plant from its neighbor de- 

 pends upon the habit of the variety — 

 whether it be a strong and vigorous 

 grower or one of more dwarf and com- 

 pact habit — varying from a few inches 

 to as much as two feet. Those in the 

 front line should be planted closely in 

 order to cover and conceal the earth 

 quickly. Plants of creeping or spread- 

 ing habit and with attractive foliage — 

 such as the Moss Pinks — are frequently 

 planted with tall growing varieties to cover the ground 



Hardy Perennials Colonized. 



In planting, straighten and spread out the roots, and press 

 the soil down firmly; but place no deeper than the plants stood in the nursery. The only culture needed is to keep 

 the soil loose and free of weeds by hoeing, to stake here and there, a plant that needs support, and to remove faded 

 flowers. In hot, dry weather a thorough watering is decidedly beneficial. If without conveniences to water readily, a 

 mulching of lawn clippings or other loose, light material will produce results almost as good. By giving the beds and 

 borders an annual dressing of well rotted manure or compost in the autumn and forking it into the soil in the spring 

 (as directed before for new autumn plantings) the size, beauty and quality of bloom will be greatly increased. 



Quality of Plants — As in other things, there is a great difference in the quality of plants of Hardy Perennials — 

 so vast a diflference that "comparisons are odious." For example, a strong, vigorous plant of almost any variety will 

 yield a wealth of bloom the first year; the early flowering kinds, in a few weeks from planting. On the other hand, a 

 small plant of the same variety, if it does not fail outright (the chances are more than even that it will) must at best 

 struggle along, producing but a few sickly flowers late in the season. Herein is the Nurseryman's "winter of discon- 

 tent." It is much less expensive to produce these small and immature plants than strong, well developed ones; yet 

 the poor ones come in direct competition in price with the high class grade — and the pity of it is that but few who 

 plant or wish to plant Hardy Perennials, are able to discriminate and determine of whom they should buy. Just here I 

 wish to state that I grow all my Hardy Perennials without using stimulants of any kind and without forcing. At the 

 autumn exhibition of the American Institute held in New York, in competition with many prominent growers of Hardy 

 Perennials, I was awarded first prize for "Best 50 varieties" of these flowers; the highest prize given. Also at the 

 Chrysanthemum Show of the same Institute I was awarded "Two Special Prizes" for Hardy Perennials. These prizes, 

 however, I esteem of little value as compared with the fact that those who have bought of me in years past continue 

 to do so regularly and, in a great many instances, are so well pleased with results obtained that they induce their 

 friends and neighbors to order of me also. 



Water Garden Stocked with Hardy Perennials and Aquatics. 



