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ELLWANGER &> BARRY 



How 

 to Plant 



BRIEF SUGGESTIONS TO PLANTERS- Con firmed 



Preparation of the Roots. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound 

 wood. This prevents their decaying and hastens the emission of new roots and fibres. 



Preparation of the Top. This consists in cutting back the top and side branches in such 

 a way as to correspond with the more or less mutilated roots, as follows: Trees with branching heads 

 should have the small branches cut clean out, and the larger ones, intended for the framework of the tree, 

 cut back to within two or three buds of their base. 



In cases where there is an abundant root and small top or few branches, the pruning need be very 

 light, but where the roots are small and the top heavy, severe pruning will be necessary. These remarks 

 are applicable to all deciduous Trees and Shrubs. Evergreens seldom require pruning, but Arbor Vitae 

 and other Evergreens planted in hedge rows may be advantageously shorn immediately after planting. 



Directions for planting, mulching, staking, and after culture, same as for fruit trees (see Hints in Fruit 

 Department, pages 6-7 ) . > 



p . Pruning, as practiced by some people, has the effect to render trees and shrubs unnatural 



** and inelegant. We refer to the custom of shearing trees, particularly conifers, into cones, 

 pyramids and other unnatural shapes. Every tree, shrub and plant has a habit of growth peculiar to 

 itself, and this very peculiarity is one of its beauties. If we prune all trees into regular shapes we destroy 

 their identity. The pruning knife, therefore, should be used to assist nature, and handled with judgment 

 and care; to lop off straggling branches, to thin the head of a tree which has become too dense, and to 

 remove dead wood. Sometimes it becomes necessary to prune severely to keep a tree from attaining too 

 great size. 



Shearing may be practiced on hedges, but never on trees or shrubs. 

 p . Many persons trim and shear them into regular shapes, imagining that regular outline adds to 



«« h«4 their effect and beauty. While symmetry and regularity of form are to be admired in a shrub, 

 this quality should never be gained at the expense of health and natural grace. 



Each shrub has peculiarities of habit and foliage, and we should aim to preserve them as far as pos- 

 sible. Judicious pruning to secure health and vigor is necessary, but trimming all kinds of shrubs into one 

 form shows a lack of appreciation for natural beauty, to say the least. Weigelas, Deutzias, Forsythias and 

 Mock Orange flower on the wood of the preceding year's growth, hence the shrubs should not be pruned in 

 Winter or Spring, but in June, after they have finished flowering, when the old wood should be shortened or 

 cut out, thus promoting the growth of the young wood, which is to flower the following season. 



Spiraeas, Lilacs, Althaeas and Honeysuckles may be trimmed during the Winter or early in Spring, but 

 the branches should only be reduced enough to keep them in good shape. The old growth should be occa- 

 sionally thinned out and the suckers and root sprouts removed when they appear. The best time, however, 

 for pruning all shrubs is when they have done flowering. The Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora should be 

 severely cut back and thinned early in Spring. 



Pruning Use the knife occasionally to thicken the growth and preserve the shape. This can be done 



Evergreens in April or May, just before the trees start to grow. 



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ORNAMENTAL TREES 



IN FOUR CLASSES 



CLASS I. — A general Descriptive List of Deciduous Trees. 



CLASS II. — A List of Deciduous Weeping or Drooping Trees, described in their respective places in the 



Catalogue. 

 CLASS III. — A List of Trees possessing remarkable characteristics of foliage, in three sections— Cut- 

 leaved, Variegated and Colored, and described in their respective places in the Catalogue. 

 CLASS IV. — Coniferae or Evergreens. 



In order that planters may be able to form an idea of the size which trees and shrubs attain at 

 maturity, a point which should always be taken into consideration at the time of planting, so that the 

 specimens may occupy the proper position, we have adopted letters to denote the proper classes, as follows: 

 A denotes trees which attain the largest size, 50 feet and upwards. 

 B " " " " " secondary size, 20 to 40 feet. 



C " " " " " medium size, 9 to 15 feet. 



D " " and shrubs which attain only small size, 1 to 8 feet. 



Our object in the above classification is to lessen the labor and difficulty, as far as possible, of making 

 selections adapted to particular purposes. 



The botanical name of the genus or family, as well as the species or variety, is placed first in Full 

 Faced conspicuous type. The English name follows in small capitals. It is to be hoped that with the 

 aid of the complete index of botanical and English names, to be found on the last page, no difficulty will be 

 experienced in finding any tree, shrub or plant described in the Catalogue. 



We do not have agents. Buy direct from the grower and do away 

 with the middleman's profit and agent's commission. 



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