PART L 



FRUIT DEPARTMENT 



HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 



We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree Planting, but 

 simply a few hints on the more important operations. Every man who purchases a bill of trees should 

 put himself in possession of " The Fruit Garden" (see third page of cover), or some other treatise on 

 tree culture, that will furnish him with full and reliable instructions on the routine of management. 

 Transplanting is to be considered imder the following heads : 



1st. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.— For fruit trees the soil should be drij, either 

 natural or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive on a soil constantly saturated 

 with stagnant moisture. It should also be well prepared by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using 

 the subsoil plow after the common one at the second plowing. On new, fresh lands, manuring will 

 be unnecessary; but on lands exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning 

 in heavy crops of clover, or well decomposed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of 

 fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as for a crop of wheat, corn, or potatoes. 



2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.— In regard to this important operation, there 

 are more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general thing, trees are planted in the ground 

 precisely as they are sent from the nursery. In removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, 

 a portion of the roots are broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the struc- 

 ture of the tree is deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form, and 

 condition of the tree, as follows : 



Standard Orchard Trees. — These, as sent from the nursery, vary from five to seven feet in height, 

 with naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top forming a head. These branches 

 should all be cut back to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, 

 and enables the remaining buds to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to 

 the sound wood. In case of older trees, of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; as a general 

 thing it will be safe to shorten all the previous year's shoots to three or four buds at their base, and 

 where the branches are very numerous some may be cut out entirely. 



Dwarf Trees, if of two or three years' growth, with a number of side branches, will require to be 

 pruned with a two-fold object in view, viz., the growth of the tree and the desired form. The branches 

 must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, those above them 

 shorter, and the upper ones around the leading shoots to within two or three buds of their base. The 

 leader itself must be shortened back one-half or more. When trees have been dried or injured much 

 by exposure, the pruning must be closer than if in good order. 



Yearling Trees Intended for Pyramids. — Some of these may have a few side branches, the 

 smallest of which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other 

 respects they should be pruned as directed for trees of two years' growth. Those having no side 

 branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production of a tier of branches within twelve inches 

 of the ground. A strong yearling, four to six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker 

 ones more than that. It is better to cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be 

 not low enough the pyramidal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 



3d. PLANTING. — Dig holes in the first place large enough to admit the roots of the tree 

 to spread out in their natural position ; then, having the tree pruned as before directed, let one per- 

 son hold it in an upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest and the 

 best from the surface in among the roots, filling every interstice, and bringing every root in con- 

 tact with the soil. When the earth is nearly filled in, a pail of water may be thrown on to settle and 

 wash in the earth around the roots; then fill in the remainder and tread gently with the foot. The use 

 of M'ater is seldom necessary, except in dry weather early in fall or late in spring. Guard against plant- 

 ing too deep; the trees, after the ground settles, should stand in this respect as they did in the nursery. 

 Trees on dwarf stock should stand so that all the stork be under the ground, and no more. In very dry, 

 gravelly ground, the holes should be dug twice the usual size and depth, and filled in with good 

 loamy soil. 



4th. STAKING. — If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be planted with the 

 tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. A piece of matting or cloth may 

 be put between the tree and the stake. 



5th. MULCHING. — When the tree is planted throw around it as far as the roots extend, and 

 a foot beyond, five or six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particularly necessary in dry 

 ground, and is highly advantageous everywhere both in spring and fall planting. It prevents the ground 

 from baking or cracking, and maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 



6th. AFTER-CULTURE. — The grass should not be allowed to grow around young trees after 

 being planted, as it stimts their growth. The ground should be kept clean and loose around them until, 

 at least, they are of bearing size. 



