Nov. 19, 18()5.1 



Forest Ahu stREAM. 



natural wonders and beautiful scenery as here. And it is 

 now so easily accessible that the trouble of reaching it is not 

 worth considering. In fact it presents no more difficulties 

 than did a journey through the White Mountains a few years 

 ago. Tbe railroad from Livingston transports the traveler 

 to within six miles of Ihe hotel, and the remainder of the 

 trip must be made by stage or in the saddle. But the roads 

 are quite good and tlie journey tc the Geyser Basins, the Lake 

 and tbe Falls is an easy one. People are much too apt to try 

 to "do" the Park in a hurry, and so rush along, day after 

 day, only half seeing things and becoming so exhausted by 

 the rapidity of thtir progress that they lose all appreciation 

 of the beauties and wonders of the Park. The trip ought to 

 he made deliberately, and it will be all tlie more enjoyable if 

 one has time to take his own outfit and travel on horseback, 

 not only over the beaten routes oE travel, but through the 

 byways of the Park as well. If this plan be followed the 

 traveler will see a vast deal that is at present out of the reach 

 of the ordinary tourist, and will bring back from his trip 

 many delightful memories of these out of-the-way spots. 

 Such a trip the sportsman should take, and then after he has 

 spent a few weeks in the Park— where besides the beautiful 

 scenery he will have phenomenal fishing— he can devote a por- 

 tion of September and October to hunting in the mountains. 



There should be no difficulty in procuring good guides at 

 any of the places that I have mentioned. This is one of the 

 most important matters in connection with a hunting trip, 

 and almost the whole pleasure of the excursion depends on 

 your men. Of course people who are used to traveling in 

 the West can start out without guides, and by means of maps 

 and such directions as they can obtain from the residents of 

 the place of departure, can find their way about through the 

 mountains comfortably enough ; but those who are new to 

 the mountains should provide themselves with good men 

 who have hunted through the country to which they are 

 bound. The first men who are likely to ofi!er their services 

 will be tlie long haired bi-aggarts, of which a few still survive 

 in the West. I am not fond of these, and if a man insists on 

 airing his wonderful shots and his success in hunting before 

 mc I usually set him down as a liar. I like best the quiet 

 men, who tell you what they have to say in a few words, and 

 are quite willing that you should do the talking. I have 

 usually found that such men come out strong when the time 

 arrives for acting. 



Starting out on such a trip as I speak of in the early days 

 fof September, one can scarcely fail to find pleasure in the 

 ;mountains. A shotgun and some fishing tackle should be 

 »taken along to insure variety and abundance of the food 

 ^supply, for there may be several days together when it will 

 ,he impossible to kill big game, but birds are almost always 

 iplenty, and most streams, except those tributary to the North 

 jPlatte and Powder Kivers, abound with fish. It is not a bad 

 ■.idea to take along a few traps, for many of the streams have 

 !3till a few beaver in them, and half a dozen beaver pelts of 

 -your own trapping make a very nice addition to the list of 

 Ithe trophies you will bring back. 



In old times one could have good success by taking 

 ^wagons and camping at the foot of the outlying spurs of the 

 (mountains, or by following the valleys up until the streams 

 Ibecame too narrow for wagon travel. Then camping, they 

 •could hunt within ten or fifteen miles of the camp and 

 (Usually be successful. Now, however, the game has been 

 (SO much harrassed that it has in a great measure retreated 

 unto the wildest, roughest country, and it is much better to 

 provide oneself with pack animals so that you can get far 

 back into the mountains, and out of the range of the cattle 

 and the men who hunt for the market. If the point of de- 

 parture is not too far from tbe country where game is to be 

 looked for, the start may be made with a pack train. But it 

 must be remembered that with packs one must travel light, 

 and so, if a long journey is to be made before the game 

 country is reached, it is better to start with wagons, driving 

 the extra animals for packing and carrying their rigging in 

 the wagons. When the country becomes so rough that these 

 last must be left, they can be cached in the brush or given 

 in charge of a neighboring ranchman, and the remainder of 

 the trip can be made with the packs alone. 



I advise people who are traveling with a pack train always 

 to carry tents. When the poles are jointed there is no difii- 

 culty about tranvsporting them on mule back, and there are 

 likely to be rainy and snowy days when the tents will add 

 greatly to one's comfort. Plentj'^ of bedding and plenty of 

 provisions are two essentials to comfort in the mountains. 

 In September, or indeed in any month when you get up into 

 the high mountains, it is likely to be very cold at night, and 

 nothing is so wretched as to shiver half awake during the 

 two or three hours before daylight. A liberal allowance in 

 the commissary department is very important. There may 

 be delays, a mule may fall down in a stream and wet its 

 load, or a dozen other things may occur to make you run 

 short of provisions if you have calcrdated too closelj', and 

 it is extremely annoying to be forced to cut short a trip on 

 account of some mishap of this kind. A little extra ' 'grub" 

 -does not cost much, and by carrying it you may often save 

 yourself some anxiety and perhaps some little suffering. 



Those who propose such a trip as I have outlined, if un- 

 acquainted with the mountains, should always take advice 

 from some old hand who knows what is required for such a 

 trip. Then, if they have good men, good animals and a 

 proper equipment, they may start out with the sure hope of 

 having a most delightful trip, 



AddreM nil ofynimmicOitions to tlie JPorvst nnd Strenm I'^ihli.ih- 

 ina Co. 



A CHATEAUGAY EXPERIENCE. 



THE regular session of Directors was over. The con- 

 fidential chat and unoflicial conference, which generally 

 follow official work, were also nearly ended, when my 

 friend looked over to me and said, "B., wiU you take two 

 weeks with me for lake fishing, to start at a moment's notice, 

 presumably ten days from now?" 



Before replying two things flashed through my mind, that 

 I could take the time as well as not and that "I knew less 

 than nothing about fishing. These two considerations, by 

 no means a close match, fixed my answer, and choosing the 

 classic reply of Dido to ^neas, 1 responded, "I'm your hair- 

 pin." 



I was as yet decidedly uncertain as to the length and 

 breadth of that which I had committed myself to, save that 

 there was one constitutent part of water, and that I was to 

 show a certain readiness. If the rest of the combination 

 was as well ordered, however. I had great confidence in the 

 satisfying success of the combmation. 1 delayed my 

 departure from the bank to determine this, and settling into 

 two arm chairs, the unfolding of the programme revealed to 

 me a mixture which 1 epitomize as follows: 



The ADraoNDACKS— In their bosom; a lake (frozen over at present;; 

 on the lake, a comfortable home belonging lo my friend ; otherwise, 

 nearly absoluie solitude. 



House— Comfortably furnished, but larder unstocked. All sup- 

 plies to be taken with us, and which could be arranged to mix wiih 

 the otber ingredients, and as completely as our own sweet will sug- 

 gested. 



Guides— Ready, and instructed to telegraph immediately, when the 

 ice had left the lake. 



Sport— Positively, salmon trout flahlng in its prime; possibly, if 

 warm weather should come early, some fly-fishing before we left for 

 home. 



Men have had visions of beauty and delight, rapturous 

 enough, but fanciful and unreal. Here I had a picture, a 

 representation of fact and possibility, equally entrancing and 

 doubly satisfactory. 



I comprehended with increasing clearness that the other 

 ingredients than water were all right, and that I had made 

 no mistake in my committal. Whether my friend had, in 

 making his proposal to one who could not tell a grizzly king 

 from a minnow gang, or a scarlet ibis from a spoon, was his 

 business, not mine. 



"Presumal)ly ten days from now" gave ample time for 

 preparation, but under my friend's direction and advice 1 

 set about getting together that which I lacked and knew 

 nothing about, viz,, the fishing gear. Although rods and 

 the whole business connected with the sport were a part of 

 the furniture of "the house," still I desired a "kit" which I 

 could later set before my own eyes and live over again with 

 the same delight the experiences to which I now looked for- 

 ward. For the rest of personal outfit I was amply supplied. 

 Hunting had stocked my gun-room closets, and rubber coats 

 aad blankets, sou'wester, jerspys, bootsi, heavy aud*^mTij;' 

 woolens, etc., etc., were waiting to be thrown into the 

 trunk, as many a time before. The only other "note of 

 preparation" to be sounded was that of "supplies and sun- 

 dries," and this we decided to leave until the expected tele- 

 gram really came to hand. 



While this ten days had yet a week to run, my friend 

 came to ray house one evening anything but a typical fisher- 

 man. "Spike-tailed coat" and white necktie are the anti- 

 podes of rubber boots and flannel shirt, and I found in them 

 nothing suggestive of "roughing it" in the wilderness. An 

 unusual light in his eye and a wealth of pleasure which 

 beamed in every feature seemed to prove that here at home 

 amid fair women and brave men, real enjoyment for him 

 was to be found, and I was not surprised to note that he 

 evidently was seeking me out thus to express himself. His 

 mood was contagious, and as I advanced to meet him, expect- 

 ing him to utter some fulsome line of some flattering song in 

 praise of beauty and chivalry, he glowed as he said, "The 

 telegram came to-night. The ice went out this morning. 

 We start at 8 o'clock to-morrow night!" 



***** 

 The Montreal express drew out of the station the next 

 evening with the sleeper attached as usual. My friend and 

 mj^self'were the sole occupants of this car. This fact, 

 together with another, that we were free to do for the next 

 two weeks absolutely as whim or fancy should suggest, gave 

 us a sense of proprietorship or ownership in regard to this 

 car and train which was exceedingly comfortable. 



It is true we permitted the conductor to "punch with 

 care" our tickets, but we patronized him and made very 

 light of such little "runs" as his— we sat in several seats at 

 the same time (so far as possible), we smoked when and 

 where we pleased, we swelled, the feeling grew that we were 

 accustomed to take exactly these trips, every season and 

 every day — we — but enough. 



It'was the exhilaration which comes of a light-heartedness 

 that follows, rest from responsibiUty, relief from strain and 

 change from daily routine. As the car began to move, so 

 all these were being left behind, and that pleasurable expan- 

 sion which gave evidence of still youthfufelasticity of spirit 

 began immediately to show itself as described above. 



God pity the poor soul whose temper of spirit is lost and 

 who cannot know again the boyish delights which are sworn 

 foes to dignity and stiffness. 



We breakfasted in the morning in the restaurant con- 

 nected with the railroad station, and a com forable breakfast, 

 too, all but the coffee. "Better coffee and less calf ee" was 

 our verdict as the white-headed old chief bottle-washer 

 continually called out; "Plentee of time, plentee of time; 

 take your time, gentlemen, no hurry, plentee of time." 



At half past six o'clock we were drawing out of St. Albans 

 on the "Chicago express" — so the time table stated it — the 

 morning of a delightful day. This remarkable "express" 

 established its claim to this title by running at a most mod- 

 erate speed, stopping at every hamlet of log houses — or saw- 

 mill — and finally winding up (so far as the detailed statement 

 of the time table showed) at Ogdensbiu-g! I wonder the rail- 

 road officials did not call it "The great through China limited 

 accommodation"! It brought us, however, to our journey's 

 end, so far as railways were concerned: and without delay 

 or accident, for which we were grateful. 



Up to this point I had been co-equal with my friend. Was 

 I not as much at home in traveling as he? Were not "the 

 cars" as tediously familiar for me as for him? 



But here— as we left the great "express" at Chateaugay 

 station, I watched our luggage with aU "supplies" being piled 



in its own solitary h^ap on the platform, and as the train 

 rolled away toward Ogdensburg via Chicago — I took up my 

 proper instrument — my violin secundas — and no more Veu 

 tm-ed on equality, much less leadership, with the true "head 

 and front" of this expedition. 



You observe that all 1 have had to say to you thus far is 

 in a .sense preliminary and anticipatory, and perhaps yod 

 think it — as it may be— too long drawn out. 



But who does not know that delight and enjoyment of 

 preparation, which constitutes a famous chapter in eVery 

 sportsman's experience? The whole pleasure is not concen- 

 trated in the shot that kills. The entire satisfaction is not 

 in the strike that captures and finally lands the fish. But 

 every fresh trip, to be complete and perfect, must furnish a 

 series of three lively chapters — of anticipation, of active ex- 

 perience, and (longest of all) retrospection or "living it over 

 again." 



Here we are then, dear Fobestand Stream, disembarked 

 at Chateaugay; not yet arrived at our destination, but on 

 the borders of the kingdom, with civilization marks grow- 

 ing less and less broad, and nature's wildness and wonder- 

 ful ways showing less and less scars from its hand. 



The discovery some years since of vahiable beds of iron 

 ore in the hills to the south of our lalcc has established a 

 road from this station, duly planked, which makes our ride 

 of ten miles to the mouth of Lower Lake Chateaugay one of 

 comfort and enjoyment. Stowed away on our load of lug- 

 gage, stores and traps, which were now piled in McGaully's 

 wagon, and driven by this prince of U. S. mail agents him- 

 self, we refilled our pipes, clutched tight Uncle Sam's mail- 

 bag, heard the crack of the whip and the welcome shout 

 "Git up!" and were off, leaving iron rails behind us. 



Away to the south, a blue line of hills formed the horizon, 

 with bold and rugged outline. To the north, hills again 

 constituted the barrier to further sight; but further away, 

 and between which and ourselves lay the winding silver- 

 thread of the river St. Lawrence. 



The sun was bright, with here and there clouds throwing 

 their dark shadows on hilltop and valley, and the scene was 

 replete with beauty and freshness. No green showed on the 

 budding trees as yet, aud the birds were not in full chorus 

 as at home, not having trooped thus far north so early, but 

 they were on the wing — coming. 



As we drew nearer to the southerly hills the smoke of 

 immense charcoal kilns filled the valley before us, and I 

 learned that these were at "the Forge," and that there we 

 should "take the steamer." This did not sound like the 

 wilderness I had looked forward to, and my barometer of 

 anticipation marked a change in a slight fall. But arrived 

 here, it proved but a small hamlet, composed of the forge 

 itself, the log houses of its workers, the company's store, 

 and a few places of more modern air. 



Adding; to our stores a crate of Bermuda onions, we un- 

 loaded from wagon to steamer— The Adu-ondacks. This 

 steamer was all right, small, perhaps fifty feet long, com- 

 fortable and jolly, and would prove a valuable link between 

 us and civilization in the following days, and assure to us 

 our daily mail. So my barometer now marked another 

 change— a decided rise. 



It was cooler up here among these grand old hills. The 

 S.-i^^^f^'^^JJ^-^iving about the margin of the lower lake, would 

 dart 'oiit "across tnfe"' i\%i,vr in visible tmifs. lj]ke swallows 

 chasing and swooping in happy flii^m'.-"''^i \VdW^d Ou^my dog- 

 skin jacket and refilled my pipe as the little steamer swung 

 off from the rude pier and pointed her sharp little nose out 

 into the lake, and settled into the bow with my friend as 

 "courier de place," to point out features of especial interest. 



This Lower Lake Chateaugay must formerly have been of 

 charming beauty, captivating in its seclusion and quiet 

 placidity. To-day, with almost every tree cut from the sur- 

 rounding hills and bordered by uneven country bi'istling 

 with stumps, it is not attractive. It suggests a chained con- 

 vict with shaved head, all beauty, grace and virtue long 

 since departed. No wonder all birds and game and even 

 fish have fled its confines befors the blight of these first 

 attacks of civilization. 



Sailing through this lake and entering the "Narrows ' we 

 now had some two miles of changing view. The river which 

 connects the upper and lower lakes winds aud twists its tor- 

 tuous course, and brings us near to wooded hills and primi- 

 tive forests. With every turn the assurance grows that 

 beyond really lies the picture which has hung before us 

 since we started. Al length, when it appears that we have 

 entered a veritable cul de sac. and that further progress is 

 absolutely shut out by the sides of the rugged hill which lies 

 directly before us, we make a sharp turn to the left, and 

 presently swinging around Bluff Point, we have fairly entered 

 upon the ruffled bosom of Upper Lake Chateaugay. Oh! 

 for a poet's pen, for an artist's pdncii, to depict the beauties 

 of this glorious spot. 



The long and ever rising hills of the EUenburgh chain — 

 around a spur of which we have wound our way into the 

 lake— shuts it in to the north. On the east higher and 

 grander mountains which culminate in Mount Lyon and 

 Mount Averill, nearly 5,000 feet high, stand eternal and evfj 

 faithful guards. To the south and west the Lookout Range 

 complete the girdle, and here, nestled in safe seclusion, lies 

 this queen of Adirondack waters. She is a fitful beauty, 

 however, and her aspect changes with every changing mood. 

 Restful and peaceful she reflects from her quiet bosom all 

 the loveliness of her charming borders, and ine added glory 

 of a perfect sky. Or, responding to the spirit of the other 

 elements, she lashes herself into a foam of mimic fury, as 

 the clouds lower and blasts of angry wind sweep down fi'om 

 the snow-clad summits above her. She is delightful in her 

 changes, and wonderful in the quickness witli which she 

 exhibits them. Except a few houses scattered around the 

 margin (and one scar near the head of the lake where the 

 ruthless axe began its devastation, inflicting the wound 

 which may soon heal, as its further use has been inderdicted 

 by a better sense), here it is as always. A road winds its 

 hidden and unsuspected way up into the eastern hills toward 

 Dannemora, but aside from that the only highways open are 

 the broad bosom of the lake itself and the trails which lead 

 away still further into this glorious wilderness. 



But about midway up the lake, on the western shore, my 

 attention is caught by the sight of an appropriate house, 

 just at the water's edge, in the clearing of which floats the 

 old flag from its lofty staff". Blue smoke curls from its 

 chimneys — another signal of hospitable welcome. Our steam- 

 er's prow is turned toward this inviting spot, and standing 

 across Smooth-rock Bay and by Poplar Point, we approached 

 near enough to observe the figures of one guide sitting on 

 the steps of the house, while the other stands, waiting oui- 

 arrival, by the side of the boats drawn up on the sandy 

 beach. It jars on my ears as the vicious little steamer, with 

 a long-drawn screech, signals our people that this, her first 



