JOSSEI/VTN BOTANICAL SOCIETY 



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merchants were known by the names of "Orchill", "Cud- 

 bear" and "Iyitmus," of which the first was English, the 

 second Scotch and the last Dutch. Fundamentally the ma- 

 terial was identical, but the various manufacturers, by the 

 incorporation of different alkalies in varying quantities, were 

 enabled to produce a complete gamut of colors. Primarily 

 the lichen afforded on ammoniacal maceration in its simplest 

 form one color constantly and this a purple. But reds, blues, 

 yellow and browns and a considerable number of shades and 

 nondescript tints were obtained by chemical combination. 

 With the primitive methods employed by the European peas- 

 antry it was not easy to predict just what color would follow 

 their operation, and particularity in manufacture received no 

 attention. When in the course of time the dyes became a 

 matter of commerce, study and more exact methods led to a 

 greater degree of precision in results, and enhanced reputa- 

 tion for the product. The rationale of their manufacture 

 may be briefly stated. First the lichen was powdered, then 

 mixed with water. To the resultant pulp was added some 

 form of ammoniacal solution, and the whole mass put aside 

 for maceration in a moderately warm situation and for a 

 varying period. At the end of the season of curing, the 

 mass had assumed a beautiful purple color. It was then dis- 

 tributed to the trade in that form or dried to a powder or 

 made into cakes. The purchaser made an aqueous solution 

 of his dye and in connection with the mordant favored pro- 

 ceeded with his coloring. The genera of lichens producing 

 the more valuable dyes are known to have been Roccella, 

 Lecanora, Umbilicaria, Parmelia, Urceolaria, Physcia, and 

 Ramalina, and in the order enumerated is set forth their rela- 

 tive value. 



The first genus, that of Roccella, is the one of greatest 

 repute among the old-time dyers and was commonly known 

 as "Orchill" or "orchella weed". The process of preparing 

 the dye was maintained a profound secret by its discoverers, 

 a family of Florentines. Sufficient quantities of the unman- 

 ufactured orchill were not to be procured in the countries 

 adjacent to Florence, and Africa, the Levant, and later the 

 , Azores, Madeiras and the East Indian Islands came to be the 



