578 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Part III. 



which is just in the centre of the mould in each pit, make hills of mould in the same form as is commonly 

 done on a dung-bed. These hills are to set the plants in, and are to be raised at first nearly close to, or 

 within a few inches of the glass. Raising the mould at first pretty nigh the glass is necessary, on account 

 of the sinking of it ; for as the frames are set on bricks, they cannot sink, but mould newly put in is sure 

 to settle, and the measure of settlement will ever depend upon the lightness and texture of the mould with 

 •which tl^ pits are filled. Therefore, these and such like matters must be left to the discretion of those 

 who are entrusted with the direction and management of the frames. When the bed is thus finished, 

 and ready for the reception of the plants, if the fiues be strewed over with mould, so that their surface be 

 just covered, to a stranger it is altogether a deception, for in every respect it has the appearance of a 

 dung-bed." 



3242. The sashes of the frames " which I used were glazed in lead ; but if any person who rears early cu- 

 cumbers have lights which are not glazed in lead, but are slate-glazed, the vacancies between the glass had 

 best be filled up close with putty, to prevent too much air from getting into the frames in the cold days 

 in winter. The frames under my management were constantly kept in good repair, and painted over once 

 every year. This method, I am clearly of opinion, is more profitable than if the frames were neglected for 

 two or three years, and then have a thorough repair with two or three coats of paint When frames are 

 new painted, they should be suffered to lie and sweeten for some time, at least for two or three weeks, or 

 until the disagreeable smell of the paint be somewhat lessened. Although the frames I used were of a 

 very good size, yet if they were a little smaller or larger, they would answer the purpose very well. There- 

 fore those who intend to build a bed after my plan, have no occasion to make new frames merely for the 

 purpose, but they may get the bed built to fit the frames they are already in possession of." 



3243. Linings of dung. " The linings are to be applied to the bed a few days before the plants are ready for 

 finally planting out, in order that the mould and every thingin the frames may be properly warmed for their 

 reception. The dung of which the linings are to be made may either he cast together in a heap, to bring it to 

 a heat before it be laid round the bed, or it may be laid round the bed as it is brought from the dung-yard ; 

 but whichever of these methods be taken, when the linings are makiiig up, the dung should be well shaken, 

 and laid up lightly, so that the heat of it may come up freely. As it takes some days before the linings are able 

 to warm the earth in the bed sufficiently for the reception of the plants, the rank steam of new dung-linings 

 is evaporated, unless the dung came immediately from the stables, which seldom is the case. The linings 

 are to be made nearly three feet broad in their foundation, and tapered up to about thirty inches at the 

 top, by which they will retain their heat long, and in sinking will keep close to the bed, which is what 

 should at all times be paid proper attention to. In the winter and spring months the finings should be 

 trodden upon as little as possible, for treading on them would be the means of stagnating their heat. 

 But should it at any time, in managing the plants, be found necessary to stand or kneel upon them, 

 boards should be laid on their tops for that purpose; which will prevent the weight of a person from 

 taking that effect on them which it otherwise would do." 



3244. Refreshing the linings. " As the linings sink they are to be raised with fresh dung ; but they should 

 seldom be raised higher than about the level of the mould in the frames in which the plants grow, espe- 

 cially when there is a strong heat in them ; for, when there is a great heat in them, if tbey are kept 

 higher than the level of the mould, the heat dries the air in the frames too much. Nor should they be 

 suffered to sink much below the level of the mould in the frames ; for that, on the contrary, would cause 

 too much moisture in the frames, especially in the winter and spring months. When the heat begins to 

 be too little, notwithstanding the finings being kept to their proper height, the fresh unexhausted dung 

 on the top or upper part of them is to be laid aside, and the exhausted dung underneath to be taken away, 

 and that which was laid aside put in the foundation, and fresh dmig laid above it in lieu of that which 

 was carried away." 



3245. Reneudng the linings. " Both the side linings may be raised at one time, but both of them should 

 never be renewed together; for if both were to be renewed at the same time, it would for a time cool the 

 frames too much, and when the heat of both came to its full strength, it would probably be too powerful 

 for the roots of the plants when extended to the flues. I seldom or never renewed the end linings, be- 

 cause I found the heat of the side ones fully sufficient ; for as there are flues or vacuities in every part of 

 the bed, the steam being fluid, circulates in, and warms every part thereof. And for the very same 

 reason there is no occasion for having a strong heat in both the side linings at one and the same time, 

 except in very cold weather. In making up and pulling down the linings, care should be taken not to in- 

 jure the brick-work." 



324ff. The covering the lights in the winter and spring is absolutely necessary ; "for, notwithstanding the 

 h^t of the linings, it would be impossible to keep up a proper degree of heat in the frames for the plants, 

 without coverings. Therefore the covering up in tne evenings, and uncovering in the mornings, must 

 be particularly attended to, and more or less put on according to the heat of the linings and the temper- 

 ature of the weather." 



3247. Aflei- the bed is set to work, heat and sweet moisture are the two principal agents required for pro- 

 moting the gi-owth and vigor of the plants ; " therefore, if there be a heat kept in the linings strong 

 enough to keep the heat in the centre of the pits of mould fluctuating between 80 and 90 degrees, cold 

 water may be poured on the flues twice or thrice a-week. There is no danger of creating damps or im- 

 pure air in the frames by watering the flues ; for the water is no sooner poured on them, than it runs 

 down their sides, and passes clear off through the drains of the bed ; consequently water being poured 

 upon the flues, gives only a momentary check to the heat of the frames; for the Sues being at all times 

 full of hot steam, when the watering is finished, the heat quickly resumes its former vivacity, and raises 

 a warm vapor in the framos, well adapted for promoting vegetation, and for increasing the growth, and 

 invigorating the plant in all its parts. The mould round about the sides of the pits close against the inner 

 sides of the flues, should be kept nearly on a level with the surface of the flues ; and as it is the mould 

 that joins to the flues which receives the first and greatest heat from the linings, it should continually 

 be kept in a moist state ; for if the mould against the flues be suffered to become dry and husky, air will 

 be generated in the frames disagreeable to the plants." 



3248. Temperature of M'Phail's frame. M'Phail has, in his Gardener's Remembrancer, as well as in his 

 Treatise on the Cucumber, given the temperature of one of his beds for every day in the year, of which the 

 annexed table shows the extremes for every month. By the heat described in this table, and plenty 

 of water, the cucumber-plants, the seeds of which 

 were sown on the 22d day of October, were maintained 

 in a healthy fruit-bearing state, in the brick-frame, 

 from the month of January to the beginning of 

 December. The melon-plants were kept in about 

 the same degree of heat given for the culture of the 

 cucumber in the forcing-frames ; and it may be pre- 

 dicted, that if any person keep melon or cucumber 

 plants in nearly the same degrees of heat as are set 

 down in the table, and manage the plants well in 

 other respects, the way to do which has been clearly 

 pointed out, they will not fail of having success. 

 M'Phail adds, that notwithstanding the objections 

 of some who have not been successful in making 

 trial of his bed, " it is now generally approved of, and in practice by numbers of the best' gentlemeu's. 

 gardeners in the kingdom ; and by various market-gardeners in the neighborhood of London." 







Mom. 





Noon. 





ETcn. 



Jan. 



from 



58 to 86 



from 



56 to 86 



from 



54 to 77 



Feb. 



from 



68 to 88 



from 



66 to 90 



from 



58 to 84 



Mar. 



from 



62 to 83 



from 



65 to 90 



from 



62 to 85 



April 



from 



69 to 84 



from 



68 to 93 



from 



64 to 90 



May 



from 



67 to 79 



from 



70 to 90 



from 



66 to 95 



June 



from 



62 to 85 



from 



80 to 98 



from 



67 to 90 

 69 to 95 



July 



from 



61 to 79 



from 



72 to 105 



from 



Aug. 



from 



60 to 78 



from 



80 to 96 



from 



70 to 89 



Sept. 



from 



69 to 80 



from 



74 to 100 



from 



72 to 97 



Oct, 



from 



64 to 81 



from 



71 to 101 



from 



68 to 89 



Nov. 



from 



62 to 82 



from 



65 to 92 



from 



61 to 80 



Dec. 



from 



65to8S 



from 



64 to 77 



from 



58 to 71 



