GilEEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 



115 



than those removed. By exercising sense and judg- 

 ment in the removal, as far as may he, of the oldest 

 branches and shoots, the Eoses may thus he pruned 

 into a renewal of their youth annually, and by the 

 aid of such root-dressings as will be described in 

 our articles on Culture, "will continue to bud and 

 blossom as only such Eoses can for so many 

 years, that they may be safely reckoned among the 

 permanent objects of beauty and interest in the 

 garden. 



The Firm Fixing of Trained Roses. — 



Without fixity of tenure and security against dis- 

 lui'bance, the best-trained Eoses soon become 

 wretched and pitiable examples of love's painstaking 

 and skilful labour lost. Even common standard 

 Eoses are so often blown out of the perpendicular 

 by rough winds as to completely mar their form, 

 and excite our commiseration rather than admira- 

 tion. Stakes of wood soon rot, and besides have 

 seldom sufficient foothold to remain for any length 

 of time firmly fixed in the ground. The zigzag 

 action of the wind, greatly aided by the leverage of 

 the Eose-top, first loosens the stakes and then throws 

 them over. Iron stakes, with variously-formed bases, 

 have been substituted for wood with good effect. (See 

 article on Planting.) Objection has been justly 

 taken to heavy iron bottoms for stakes, as they 

 speedily corrode in the ground ; and although it is 

 said that soils with a fair percentage of iron are 

 the most favourable for the development of high 

 colour in Eoses, it is certain that the roots of Eoses 

 metaphorically turn up their noses at the large doses 

 of iron rust generated by ii-on stakes. The best 

 cure for this is to dip the base of the stake iuto 

 hot pitch, and allow this to become thoroughly 

 hard and dry before putting it in the ground. 

 A similar coating, or one of tar varnish, is the best 

 dressing for the upper portion of the stakes, and 

 will last for years. Figures of several iron Eose- 

 stakes have already been given, and they may be 

 had of any length. 



GEEEIST-HOUSE PLAIS^TS. 



By William Hugh Gower. 



Spacris. — Handsome free-flowering plants, ad- 

 mirably adapted for bouquet-making, as well as the 

 general decoration of green-house or conservatory. 

 These plants bear the knife well, and consequently 

 recommend themselves to ladies who cut their own 

 flowers and like long stems with them. 



Epacris are peculiar to Australia and New Zea- 



land. The species from the latter country are not 

 showy. They are generally found in elevated 

 positions, a knowledge of which should assist the 

 cultivator. 



The genus has always been popular with lovers of 

 j)lants, and therefore the hybridiser has paid con- 

 siderable attention to them, the result being the pro- 

 duction of numerous extremely beautiful varieties. 



The flowers of Epacris are tubular, waxy, more oi 

 less drooping, and spring from the bases of the 

 closely-set leaves, in such numbers as to form dense 

 racemes of bloom. There are tw'o distinct sections, 

 of Epacris, one being erect and bushy, the othei- 

 haA'ing a somewhat lax or trailing habit of growth. 

 The latter produce longer flowers, and usually bloom 

 later in the season, and display their beauties to 

 the greatest advantage when trained upon a wire 

 trellis. 



The bushj^ kinds should be cut back hard after 

 blooming. The lax growers must only have an 

 inch or two of their shoots trimmed off. 



When Epacris are young, they should be potted 

 in good rough peat, with a liberal quantity of sharp 

 sand added ; but after they have attained size and 

 strength, the addition of a small quantity of light 

 loam will be found advantageous. The erect- 

 growing kinds mostly bloom in winter and early 

 spring. Soon after the blooming season is past, cut 

 the shoots down to an inch or two of the previous 

 year's wood. They should then be placed in a frame 

 or some position which will give them a closer 

 atmosphere than usual, giving them an occasional 

 sprinkling with the syringe or rose watering-can, 

 which will materially assist in the production of 

 young shoots. When the new growths are about an 

 inch long, re-pot the plants ; and as soon as root- 

 action begins, give them more air. When the young 

 shoots have made some fom- or five inches of growth, 

 pinch out the points, and they will again form lateral 

 shoots, and thus produce more dense and compact 

 bushes. If the plants are to flower the following 

 winter, do not stop the shoots a second time (unless 

 the plants are very thin), as with one stopping they 

 will make long stout shoots, which will be clothed 

 with flowers the greater part of their length, and 

 be more effective than a greater quantity of smaller 

 ones. 



The plants ha%ing become well established in their 

 pots, remove them to the open air, standing them 

 upon a bed of ashes to keep worms from entering 

 the pots. Here they may remain until autumn, 

 when it will be necessary to return them to their 

 winter quarters, which should be a cool and airy 

 position. 



The lax growers being, as before remarked, later 

 bloomers than the shrubby kinds, must not b© 



