CALIFORNIA AVOCADO ASSOCIATION 



15 



*'top-working" the old avocado tree by the grafting method 



The outfit required for grafting is not extensive. A wedge made of some 

 hard wood (orange or lemon will do nicely) eight to ten inches in length and one 

 inch in diameter, a pruning saw, butcher's cleaver, a hammer, a pot of grafting 

 wax, some contrivance for keeping the wax warm (I use a lamp in a coal oil can), 

 a paint brush and a roll of budding cloth complete the list. 



The selection of the graft wood is most important It should be hard and 

 well matured, but not too large, and taken from what is known as the "second 

 growth." The buds on this wood should be plump and well- formed, but not too 

 far advanced. Soft pulpy wood with feathery buds is most undesirable. As an 

 illustration of the importance of wood selection, I will state that my first efforts 

 were crowned with dismal failure. Out of fourteen grafts most carefully applied, 

 not one was living at the end of two weeks (they were all from first growth wood). 

 I cut these same trees back eight inches and applied second growth wood without 

 the loss of a single graft. 



The ideal tree for grafting is one which is branched near the ground, pre- 

 senting a well formed crown, composed of three or four limbs of about equal size. 

 Each of these limbs should receive two grafts, one of which may be later removed 

 if so desired. Such a tree will produce a marvelous head in a very short space of 

 time. Many trees, however, grow straight and tall with few or no large branches 

 near the ground. These trees are sawed off at a height of about four feet and 

 four grafts are inserted. Later two of these should be cut away if they interfere 

 with the growth of the others. 



There are doubtless numerous variations in the technic of grafting. However, 

 the following has proven entirely satisfactory in my hands. Having selected a point 

 at which your final cut is to be made, go a foot or two above and saw off the 

 heavy top. This is a precautionary method to prevent splitting. The top being 

 removed, cut squarely across at right angles to the long axis of the limb at your 

 selected point. Next with a sharp knife smooth off the face of the stump, remov- 

 ing the velvety surface left by the saw. Then place the cleaver across the middle 

 of the stump and split it with several sharp strokes from the hammer, remove the 

 cleaver and insert the wedge, pounding it in until the crack across the face of the 

 stump is at least twice the width of the graft to be used. Unless the stump is split 

 for a considerable distance the pressure on the grafts will be too great when the 

 wedge is removed. You are now ready to prepare your graft. 



Select your graft stick, as a rule using the heavier wood in the larger stumps. 

 Cut the lower end of the grafts in such a manner as to form a wedge approximately 

 one inch in length. The sloping sides of this wedge must be perfectly flat and 

 smooth. Correct any concavities or convexities which may exist. The length 

 of the graft is unimportant, but it should possess two or three good healthy buds. 

 The top of the graft is cut squarely across, leaving a flat smooth surface. The 

 grafts now being prepared, insert the wedged ends, one on either side of the split 

 in the surface of the stump, carefully remove the wedge until the grafts are slighdy 

 pinched but easily movable. Now adjust the grafts in such a manner that the 

 cambium of the outer side of the graft is in contact with the cambium of the stump. 

 This being done remove the wedge and the pressure will hold the grafts firmly in 

 place. 



A crack of considerable width now remains across the face of the stump. 

 This is filled in with paper, cloth, avocado leaves, or anything else which may be 

 at hand, the idea being to prevent the hot wax from running away when later it is 

 applied. Next apply a bandage of budding cloth about one inch wide from the 



