16 



ANNUAL REPORT 1919 AND 1920 



top of the stump to the lower limit of the split in its sides. Now with a paint brush 

 apply a generous coating of hot wax to the face of the stump, making sure that the 

 outer edges and points of contact between the grafts and stump are well covered. 

 Owing to the thickness of the bark on the stump the grafts will set slightly in, leav- 

 ing a space between the bandage and the graft, this space is filled with a plug of 

 soft wax and painted over with hot wax. It is well to reinforce the bandage where 

 it covers the split with a coat of the wax. Cover the upper ends of the graft with 

 a thick coat of paint, it is more adhesive than the wax, which is sometimes used. 

 Protect the grafts from the sun by wrapping newspaper about the ends of the 

 stumps. If possible always leave a few branches on the grafted tree for two 

 months to aid in carrying on the circulation. The trunk of the tree and the large 

 branches are protected from the sun-burn by means of the application of several 

 coats of white-wash. 



The buds wall start to swell almost immediately, and from this point on 

 require constant attention. No fixed rule can be given to govern either the number 

 of grafts to be permitted to develop on each limb or the number of buds permitted 

 to develop on each graft. Each tree presents a case in itself, and no two require 

 the same treatment. There is one point which I cannot emphasize too strongly, 

 that is, the importance of supporting each graft. Their rapid growth and conse- 

 quent weight renders them extremely susceptible to violence of any kind. I have 

 lost no less than twenty-five of my choicest grafts through inadequate support. 



Just how late in the spring grafting can be successfully done I am unable to 

 state. However, I can say that my April grafts have proven quite as satisfactory 

 as those of February. 



GROWING AVOCADOS FROM SLIPS 



S. W. JAMIESON, BURBANK, CALIF. 



Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen: 



My information on the subject of Avocado cuttings is all second hand, as I 

 have never made any myself. It is a matter of considerable interest to know that 

 it can be done, whether it is ever commercially successful or not. My attention 

 was first brought to the matter through hearing of some experiments in that line 

 made by Mr. Corcoran, Horticultural Instructor at the Manual Arts High School, 

 Los Angeles, and the following information was received through him: 



The cutting should be made when the tree is as inactive as possible and should 

 be from young, firm wood. Care should be taken that the knife is very sharp 

 and that the cut is made through a node, or joint. It may help to sht the bark 

 slightly at the lower end so as to break it and aid in callousing. Ether seems to 

 aid the process but they will root without it. When ether is used the upper part 

 of the cutting is protected by paraffin, or by inserting in sand and the lower part 

 exposed for eight hours to the action of one cubic centimeter of commercial ether 

 to the cubic foot, covering the cuttings with a bell glass or similar contrivance 

 during the process. This acts on the oils and starches, changing them to sugar, 

 making them more active and aiding absorption or sap current. 



Prof. J. C. Whitten of the College of Agriculture is going to work on this 

 during the coming season, and his results will be available within a year. A letter 

 addressed to him at Berkeley will bring a response as to his methods and success. 

 Under good lath house conditions with clean sand and starting about the last of 

 February, there should be little difficulty in rooting at least 50 per cent of the 

 cuttings made. 



