CALIFORNIA AVOCADO ASSOCIATION 



65 



leave more than one when transplanting to the nursery row. Holes for planting 

 are dug four inches in diameter and plenty deep enough for the roots to be carefully 

 spread out. Do not pack the dirt around but fill in with loose dirt following soon 

 after planting with water to settle the dirt. You will find a regular post-hole digger 

 a fine tool to dig such holes for planting. From the time the trees are set in the 

 nursery row, never allow them to become dry, or the soil to crust around them. 

 Deep furrows are made when irrigating to keep the water from the surface of the 

 ground, which will tend to draw the roots downward. Cultivation should be done 

 as soon after irrigating as possible, keeping up close to the trees, as we believe 

 that good cultivation close to the trees is two-thirds of the growing of nursery 

 stock. This same style of cultivation will apply after they have been set in the 

 orchard. Never be afraid to do too much cultivating as this cannot be over-done. 

 I would not recommend non-cultivation for avocados any more than non-cultivation 

 for citrus trees. They all require air. The amount of water will depend very much 

 upon the kind of soil and drainage. We water our nursery stock every 1 days. 

 Stock planted either in May or June will be, if properly cared for, ready to bud 

 the following March or April as soon as the sap starts. 



There comes a time in the growing of nursery stock when the nurserymen 

 should be careful to obtain the very best of budwood. For the past two years 

 we have used only "p^t^igreed" budwood from orchards that have proven to be 

 valuable fruit producers, and have when possible required a two-year performance 

 record of trees that they are cut from. Some growers have not kept an exact record 

 of their trees, but this should be done if possible on trees that buds are taken from. 

 Mr. Whedon, from whom we obtained our Fuerte buds, has kept a record now 

 for several years. The types of budwood vary a great deal, as one type of buds 

 from one variety will do well while the same type of another will not. Budwood 

 should, if possible, be cut early in the morning when the trees are fresh, being 

 very careful never to cut at one time more buds than can be used in four or five 

 days. We are very careful never to hurry when budding but see that every 

 bud is well inserted and carefully wrapped. Some nurserymen use cotton twine 

 or raffia for v/rapping, but we have found that a good prepared waxed cloth has 

 been much more satisfactory, as it seals more closely preventing the air from get- 

 ting under the bud, which would cause them to dry and turn black. The bud 

 eyes should never be covered over with the wrap, but the balance should be well 

 wrapped and drawn up very tight. After the buds have been in for ten to fourteen 

 days, go over them and if found alive the tops of the trees should be tipped off. 

 A.fter another fourteen days if found alive the seedling stock is cut off about six to 

 eight inches above the bud, allowing no suckers to grow but forcing the bud eye 

 out as fast as possible. As soon as the buds are out from four to eight inches they 

 are at once staked. They are at this time very soft and can be started straight, 

 which cannot be done after they have gone longer. The seedling stalk should be 

 left on until the bud has grown out well, when it is cut off just above the bud and 

 either waxed or painted over. We go over our stock at least twice a month to 

 break off all suckers and to retie. 



Balling of trees depends greatly on the size of the seedling stock. Do not 

 make large, loose balls as they only break all the fibrous roots. If you furrow 

 deeply for watering you will find that a ball for yearling trees made from seven 

 to eight inches in diameter and from fourteen to sixteen inches in depth, will be 

 large enough. 



All trees after balling should be held under cover for at least ten to fourteen 

 days before they are delivered for orchard planting. 



