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ANNUAL REPORT 1920 AND 1921 



Transplanting Seedlings. 



It is best to transplant the seedlings from the seed bed to the nursery rows 

 before they grow too large and have developed a heavy root system. Plants up 

 to six inches can be handled with bare root without much setback. They should 

 be carefully shaken out of the seedbed soil, cutting off all injured roots, and 

 placed at once in small boxes which will hold about fifty packed with wet moss 

 around each one and the box covered over with wet burlap. Take the trees 

 out in small lots so that each tree is planted in the nursery within one hour from 

 the time it is removed from the seed bed. 



The nursery soil should be moist and easily workable so the roots may be 

 spread out in the trench, made by a small walking plow, and loose soft dirt 

 carefully rolled in around them. Water must follow the planting within a few 

 minutes to settle the soil and freshen the small trees. 



Irrigating Nursery, 



Water should be supplied very close to the newly planted trees every few 

 days until they are well established. 



Shades. 



Each tree must be shaded from the direct sun, shingles being generally 

 used for this work. 



Do not use pots or boxes in raising avocado trees. They produce root curl 

 and spoil the future growth of the orchard trees. 



Budding. 



Stock planted in the field during April should be ready to bud the following 

 August or September. The seedlings should be from three-eighths to three 

 quarters of an inch in diameter before budding. 



Budwood of the different varieties is not alike. In some kinds a bud which 

 is slightly broken open can be used, while in others this advanced bud is sure 

 to be unsuccessful; therefore it is necessary to become familiar with the wood 

 to be used and learn which buds grow best in each variety. In general, it is 

 desirable to select a plump, mature bud which seems ready to start into growth. 

 Early in the spring this wood is obtained from the last growth of the previous 

 year, and later in the season from the new branches. This new growth must 

 become fairly mature, which usually requires six to ten weeks. Very little 

 success is obtained from using soft tips. 



Cut a shield bud three-quarters of an inch or more in length allowing an 

 equal amount of wood above and below the bud. Do not remove the hard 

 wood from the shield. It is best to leave a short piece of the leaf stem to push 

 on while inserting the buds, this also protects the bud from the wrapping. The 

 common T shaped cut is made, being careful not to break the bark in placing the 

 bud. The sap must be flowing freely so that the bark separates readily. 



Waxed tape or heavy soft cotton string is used for wrapping with equal 

 success. The bud must be tied extremely tight as close to the eye as possible 

 without covering it. Secure the wrap by slipping the end under the last loop and 

 pulling down tight. Many buds are lost through spreading of the bark. Unless 

 the wrap seriously cuts the bark do not remove it for at leeist four weeks. If 

 the stock is growing very fast the trees should be gone over very often, starting 

 the end of the second week and re-tie any that show a serious cutting by the 

 wrap. 



