CALIFORNIA AVOCADO ASSOCIATION 



89 



The pruning of the avocado may be divided into two phases, the first 

 consists of the formation of the tree during the first three or four years or up to 

 the time it begins bearing; the second consists of the treatment bearing trees 

 should have. 



Due to the extreme brittleness of avocado v^ood and the tendency of the 

 trees to form dangerous types of crotches, the wisest and most successful type 

 of structural framework to build up is based on a modified leader plan. In other 

 words, the main limbs should radiate from the central trunk up to a height at 

 which it seems desirable to stop direct upward growth, which will vary with 

 type and variety of tree. In order to achieve this result, it will be necessary to 

 carefully stake all young trees as they are set out and to follow this staking up 

 consistently until the tree is at least twelve or fourteen feet in height. The best 

 way to do this is to use one stake placed immediately against the trunk of the 

 tree and up which the trunk should be carefully trained. This stake should be 

 placed against the wind. After the first year, two by two redwood in eight 

 foot lengths will be found best for the purpose. If these are creosoted they 

 will last indefinitely. If necessary, one by two pine can be spliced with baling 

 wire to lengthen these. In young trees, a judicious amount of heading of the 

 limbs will be necessary in most cases, in order to stock up the trunk and primary 

 branches, and to correct a too droopy tendency. No limbs should be allowed to 

 attain any permanent size or maturity closer to the ground than two and a half 

 feet. If any one limb seems determined to take the growth of the tree, the only 

 safe thing for the future of the tree is to remove it entirely. Sunburn and water 

 starvation must be zealously avoided as they will defeat all the skill of the most 

 experienced pruner. 



In the first few months after setting the young tree out when the growths 

 it makes during the re-esablishment periods are very short, as little cutting should 

 be done as is consistent with the correction of structural faults carried over from 

 the nursery. 



If, during the first months, the tree makes little growth, the bark of the 

 trunk may become tight and constricted, preventing proper development when 

 the tree does become established, it is advisable to slit this bark lengthwise, giving 

 the trunk a chance to expand. This will heal very rapidly and aid the tree 

 greatly. 



It is vitally important in handling young budded avocado trees that no 

 stubs be left and all cuts be carefully painted. A cut should be made either 

 close to a bud or flush with a small twig. Any ragged cuts should be carefully 

 trimmed with a knife. A saw cut of any size should always be trimmed with 

 a knife on an avocado of any size. The danger of die-back in young trees 

 establishing them.selves, when these details are not properly observed, is much 

 greater. If it is necessary to cut the terminal of the leader of a young tree, 

 great care should be exercised. If cut to a plump bud in the internode, the 

 result will be that the growth will be temporarily checked, stocking up the tree, 

 but allowing the leader to eventually continue upward. If cut to a small twig, 

 limb or bud of poor development, the result will be that the tree is more or less 

 permanently flattened out at this point. Further upward growth will follow 

 several leaders in this case. The split-type of crotches should be removed as 

 fast as they appear, as they are a great menace. 



Now as to the second phase or the treatment of trees from the time they 

 begin production onwards. If the methods outlined above are carefully followed, 

 there will be no necessity for any severe cutting (particularly stubbing or heading 



