130 



CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING. 



therefore, if it be put to its legitimate use, the cer- 

 tainty of a maximum crop of fruit at the least 

 possible cost, is a point which must not bo lost sight 

 of. From this rcmai-k, it must not bo inferred that 

 Peaches and Nectarines in pots cannot be forced, as 

 many people, to save their permanently-planted trees, 

 invariably obtain their earliest crops from pyramids 

 and bushes thoroughly established in pots, tubs, or 

 boxes. Where this is the object, detailed directions 

 such as will be given for the management of the early 

 Peach-house will apply. In order to attain the more 

 legitimate end, the trees should be retarded by abun- 

 dant ventilation until they approach the flowering- 

 stage, when fire-heat should only be applied when 

 there is danger of severe morning frosts running the 

 temperature down to, or near, the freezing point. 

 When trees are brought on in this way, and a di-y 

 bracing air is kept in constant circulation through 

 the house, it is astonishing how vigorously the 

 blossoms of the Peach expand, well in advance of the 

 wood-buds, and how freely the fruit sets in a tem- 

 perature that is equally favourable to the Cherry, 

 the Pear, and the Plum. In mild, diy seasons, all 

 stone-fruit trees set their fruit freely on the open 

 wall ; in the dry, airy orchard-house, they will do 

 the same often without the aid of fire-heat at all ; 

 but there are times and certain conditions of the 

 ^atmosphere which are more fatal to fertilisation than 

 actual frost itself. If, for instance, the sun is ob- 

 iscured for days together, and the atmosphere is 

 charged with cold, stagnant moisture, the pipes 

 should be steadily warmed, and the apex lights 

 •opened when the temperature touches 40'^. "NAHien 

 the trees are in full flower, they must bo ke-pt pro- 

 gressing in a dry temperature ranging from 40^^ at 

 -night to oO° or 55*^ by day, when a circulation of air 

 will greatly facilitate the setting process, provided 

 it can be secured without creating a cold cutting- 

 draught. After the fruit is set, and if mild genial 

 weather prevails, 45" to 50° may be taken as the 

 minimum, and 55'' to 60^" as the maximum ; but 

 higher than this the mixed orchard-house should not 

 be allowed to rise, at least until after the stoning 

 process is complete, when fire-heat will no longer be 

 needed, but time, apparently lost during the early 

 .•stages, can be regained by closing early with solar 

 heat on fine sunny afternoons. Some growers have 

 .advised setting and keeping open all the ventilators 

 by day and night ; but why the genial afternoon 

 warmth from bottled-up sun-heat through April and 

 May should be ignored, it is difficult to imagine. 

 One result in cold fickle seasons is certain to follow, 

 and that is crippled foliage, subject to the attacks of 

 black and green fly, mildew, and a tendency on the 

 part of weakly trees to cast their fruit at stoning- 

 iime. 



Ventilation. — From the preceding remarks the 

 amateur will have gathered tliat fire-heat must be 

 sparingly used as a necessary agent when the weather 

 is unfavourable, and a circulation of air cannot be 

 secured without it. Through the first stage, that is 

 from the starting to the flowering period, the venti- 

 lators should be kei)t constantly more or less open, 

 also during the setting process. After the fruit is 

 set and swelling, plenty of air thi'ough the early 

 part of the day is an important matter, otherwise 

 the young growths will be weak, long- jointed, and 

 watery. When fine summer weather sets in, the 

 ventilators may be opened as early as six o'clock in 

 the morning, and left open until five in the after- 

 noon, when closing with copious syringing will 

 greuLiy assist the swelling of tlie fruit. When the 

 latter Ijegins to coloiu', throw every ventilator wide 

 open, and close or leave them open at night, accord- 

 ing to the state of the weather, and the period at 

 which the fruit is wanted for use. 



Watering.— It is difficult to advise the amateur 

 upon this important point, as an excess of water 

 when the trees ai-e at comparative rest, is almost as 

 bad as the want of it when they are in activity. 

 Fruit-trees, however, should never be allowed to be- 

 come dry from the time they are le-potted in the 

 autumn, until the succeeding year's wood is ripe, and 

 the leaves are ready to fall. During this jjeriod 

 partial dryness may do no harm, but care should be 

 taken that they are in a satisfactory state at the 

 time they are turned out, reduced, and re-potted. 



Immediately after this operation has been per- 

 formed, say in October, new roots will commence 

 the slow but sure process of working in the fresh 

 compost, and gradually filling up the blossom-buds 

 for the succeeding year. Therefore, whether they 

 are plunged in the oi^en air or in the orchard-house, 

 a regular system of watering should from this time 

 be carefully carried on. If well plunged throughout 

 the dormant season, very little water will of course 

 suffice ; but if once allowed to receive a check, they 

 will most likely cast many of their flower -buds in 

 the spring. "WTien the fruit is set and the trees are 

 in free growth, it is not easy to water a properly- 

 drained and potted tree too liberally. The operation 

 should, however, always be entrusted to one reliable 

 person, as owing to the surface moisture, which is 

 produced by constant syringing, it is difficult for a 

 strange hand to judge from appearances. Early 

 morning is the best time to water until the trees are 

 in full leaf ; but when rapid growth has set in, 

 copious supplies should be given every evening, as 

 the roots then have the benefit of a cool, refreshing- 

 bath, extending throughout the night. In ver}' hot 

 weather it may be necessary to water twice a day. 



