FLORISTS' FLOWERfe. 



245 



rough with a fork, to "be pulverised by frosts ; but this 

 siiould not be done more than two inches deep. It 

 is well to margin the beds with shallow boards, to 

 keep the soil from washing down into the paths. As 

 a bed well constructed at the commencement will 

 admit of several successive plantings, with an an- 

 nual addition of fertilising materials, it is worthy 

 of the particular care of the cultivator, though the 

 preparation at first may involve some little trouble 

 and expense. 



The best season for general planting is the 

 last fortnight in February. The plants have 

 not then to contend with what is sometimes detri- 

 mental to their well-being— the severities of the 

 winter. In some favourable seasons, such for in- 

 stance as the winter of 1884-85, the roots may be 

 planted with advantage in October ; they will have 

 more time to vegetate and establish themselves, will 

 make stronger plants, will bloom more vigorously, 

 and about a fortnight earlier than if planted in 

 spring. But a certain amount of hazard always 

 attends autumn planting, and the dried roots will 

 keep well and plump if cantered in a cool, dry place. 



One of the best Ranunculus growers of the day 

 thus sets forth the method of planting: — "In fine 

 weather towards the end of February rake your beds 

 perfectly level, and divide them into six longitudinal 

 lines for mixed roots, allowing four inches from the 

 outside row to the edge ; or, for narrow sorts, mark 

 your rows transversely at distances of five inches 

 asunder, and plant six roots in a transverse row. 

 Then with a small hoe draw drills one and a half 

 inches deep, and plant the roots with the claws down- 

 v>-ards, with pressure sufficient to secure them firmly 

 in the soil, so as to be one and a half inches from 

 the crowns to the surface, in order to secure a firm 

 site for the tubers. Some growers do not draw drills, 

 but after raking the soil loosely they press the tuber 

 with the thumb and finger into the soil to the re- 

 quired depth, and rake on them the surrounding soil. 

 But this can be done only in favourable weather, and 

 when the soil is light and friable, and with attention 

 not to break the claws of the tubers. AVhen planting 

 on a small scale, a dibble, with a shoulder at the 

 precise depth, may be used, but in the case of larger 

 quantities it is an inconvenient method, and planting 

 at the bottom of a drill with moderate pressure, and 

 without disturbing the subsoil, is attended with 

 similar advantages to the use of the dibble, and in 

 ] ractice will be found to have some points of pre- 

 ference. If the top soil is light after planting, it 

 may be g<-ntly beaten with the back of the spade. 

 This operation, however, must be only done in dry 

 weather, and may be repeated just before the plants 

 come up." 



The plants make their appearance above the 



soil a month or five weeks after planting, and 

 when fairly through the earth, it is a good plan 

 on a fine drying day to gently press the soil 

 about them, as it becomes loosened by frost, the 

 action of worms, &c. It is customary to gently 

 tread down the soil between the rows, and, after this 

 is done, a top-dressing is placed on the surface. This 

 consists of rich compost, principally of decomposed 

 manure. It acts as a protection to the young plants 

 from cold, drying winds, and also as a source of 

 nourishment to the roots, carried down by the agency 

 of rain. As late frosts will sometimes injure the 

 plants, and more particularly cold cutting winds in 

 April and May, a few sprays of Laurel, or some ever- 

 green Fir, can be stuck into the ground on the exposed 

 sides of the plants, and these will be found a great 

 protection. Genial showers in April and May are 

 very helpful to the plants. The Ranunculus flou- 

 rishes best in a moist soil, and if May be a dry 

 month, water is necessary, which should be given 

 just as the buds are appearing. This is a critical 

 time, and from lack of moisture we have known 

 plants fail to bloom after they have thrown up their 

 flower-stems. 



Water from a pond or brook is better than from a 

 well, or, failing this, water that has been for a few 

 hours exposed to the sun. It should be applied 

 morning and evening, according to the temperature, 

 between the rows, fiom a watering-pot with a long 

 spout, and not over the foliage, excejot in cloudy and 

 showery weather. 



To have seed of good varieties it should be saved 

 only from flowers of the best quality as to shape and 

 colour of marking. Should there be some semi- 

 double flowers possessing good qualities, the pollen 

 from these might be used for the purpose of impreg- 

 nation. The most approved method of fertilising is 

 by gathering the semi-double flowers, and applying 

 the pollen by lightly beating it on the pericarp of 

 the flowers to be fertilised; but if semi-double 

 flowers are scarce or valuable, then the ax)plication 

 of pollen may be made in the usual way with a large 

 camel' s-hair pencil. The operation should be re- 

 peated for several days in fine sunny weather, when 

 the plants are uncovered, shade being inimical to 

 fertilisation. The stems having seed-vessels should 

 be supported with sticks to prevent the stalks from 

 breaking down, which would deprive the seed of 

 the necessary nutriment. The seed should be 

 gathered when it turns brown, and kept loose in a 

 drawer in a dry place. The drawer should be left 

 open to admit air, as the seed- pods are liable to 

 mildew for some time after githering. Ranunculus- 

 seed, if well saved, will retain its vitality two ycais. 



The best time to sow seed is October or Fibruary. 

 It should be separated from the stalks, and, when 



