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CASSELL'S POPULAR GAEDENING. 



in resuscitating the semi-suspended action of the 

 recently- detached roots. So soon as the roots are 

 actively at work the pot Rose shoots may be thinned 

 out, and only a few of the stronger ones left. These 

 may he cut hack more or less, according to the habit 

 of the Rose and the time it is wanted to bloom. (See 

 general remarks on Pruning, Vol. II., p. 9.) 



As a rule, however, Roses in pots may be more 

 severely cut back than those in the open air, as they 

 have a tendency to produce more moderate-sized 

 shoots, and these are strengthened by close pruning. 

 Better results are also mostly reaped from a few 

 strong shoots than a greater number of weakly ones. 

 But so much has already been written on the prun- 

 ing of Roses, that a few illustrations appealing to the 

 eye will prove more interesting and instructive than 

 pages of letter-press. In Fig. 48, the pruning and 

 training of pot Roses may be seen in operation — 

 from the lifting of the small plant from the open 

 ground in July or October, until it has grown into the 

 best and most useful form for a pot Rose — that of a 

 dwarf bush in its third season from the ground. 



Free exposure to light and air is essential, alike 

 whether the Roses are grown in the open throughout 

 the year, or are to be forced or fostered under glass. 

 Plunged in the open air or placed in houses, no con- 

 tact nor over-crowding must be permitted, for perfect 

 maturity of growth is the secret of robust health and 

 profusion of bloom. 



Young plants may need shifting twice a year, say 

 April and July, but established ones once every 

 autumn, say in October. It will not always be 

 needful to give them a larger pot, but the drainage 

 may be replaced or re-adjusted, as much old soil as 

 possible removed, and replaced with fresh compost, 

 such as that already recommended, and the plants 

 removed to their old quarters, or placed in new 

 ones under glass, as thought best. 



The general culture throughout the growing 

 season may be summed up in a sentence, thus : 

 Keep them clear of insects, stable against winds, 

 and never let them flag for lack of water, or want 

 of food. Manure-water, made from soot, pigeons' 

 dung, or guano, the latter not stronger than half 

 an ounce to the gallon, are among the best foods for 

 pot Roses, and a good overhead sprinkling at least 

 twice a day— say at six a.m. and six p.m. — will im- 

 part size, vigour, and hardness to the foliage, and 

 ■additional beauty to the buds and blossoms. 



Roses in Pots under Glass.— Roses in pots 

 mostly bloom at least a second time in the open air. 

 Nothing can be more natural than the moving of 

 late-blooming Perpetuals and Teas into the window 

 or conservatory to expand the buds and blossoms that 

 might otherwise be cut down by early frosts. In 



this way Roses may often be enjoyed throughout 

 most of the winter months. Besides, as already 

 remarked, the time of blooming is largely determined 

 by the season of pruning. Instead, therefore, of 

 allowing all the Roses in pots to bloom a first or a 

 second time nearly abreast, some portions of them 

 could be cut back — say at the end of July — to force 

 a second bloom, and these late cut-backs would yield 

 a succession of flowers in a sunny window or light 

 conservatory till the end of the year. 

 . The same end might be reached by potting-up 

 Perpetuals and Teas in bud at the end of September, 

 and by such and other means of fostering late blooms 

 on out-of-door Roses, as well as the general culture of 

 Tea and other varieties in the conservatory, and by 

 forcing, the greatest and newest charm of modem 

 horticulture, that of Roses all the year round, may 

 be brought within reach of most horticulturists. 

 Much can be accomplished by these two methods of 

 growing Roses : that in the open air, and in ordinary 

 green-houses and conservatories. But if we add a 

 Rose-house and the forcing of Roses in pots to these 

 two, the supply is enlarged, and a continuous suc- 

 cession of flowers more thoroughly insm-ed. 



The pot-culture of the Rose in cool houses does 

 not differ from that in the open air, unless in the 

 matter of climate. The latter, however, is a most 

 vital difference, affecting treatment, however, far 

 less than produce. Roses in conservatories may need 

 more frequent and larger shifts ; shorter and less 

 thorough rests. Fortunately Teas and some of the 

 Hybrid Perpetual Roses, notably La France, go on 

 blooming, breaking afterwards, and flowering again 

 on the new wood throughout the season. Still, 

 as the normal temperature of the conservatory, 

 from 45" to 50'', is too low to perfect Roses in winter 

 or very early spring and summer, there is need of 

 forcing Roses in pots, and of having a hot-house full 

 of Tea Roses planted out, to sustain the supply. 

 The ordinary culture and treatment of green-house 

 plants admirably suits Roses in pots in conservatories, 

 and as growth cannot be effectually arrested there by 

 cold, it is good practice to partially arrest it by com- 

 parative drought, when practicable, between each 

 succeeding crop of bloom. 



Two, three, or even four crops a year may be 

 gathered in conservatories, according to treatment 

 given, variety grown, and temperature maintained. 

 In forcing-houses, Roses may be encouraged to break 

 early, and develop their first blossoms at the end 

 of March or early in April, their second in June, 

 and their last in September or October. But 

 where a considerable variety are grown, they wiU 

 be very far from coming in all at one time, and 

 so much the better for a continuous supply. So 

 soon as any plant has finished blooming it should 



