THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. 



115 



successful forcing of all kinds of stone-fruit depends 

 upon the way in which they are started and carried 

 through every stage, until the most critical one of 

 all, that of stoning, is complete. Old-established 

 trees, to which early forcing has become a part of 

 their nature, stand it better than young ones, and in 

 course of time burst into flower with a modicum of 

 warmth tbat w r ould not affect others that have never 

 been forced. This condition is of course the result 

 of many years' good and patient management, and 

 proves to the young beginner how important it is to 

 proceed step by step until the object he has in view 

 is attained. No one thinks of suddenly changing 

 the routine of a set of Peach-houses by starting the 

 late house first, and the early house last. Neither 

 does an experienced forcer distress a set of young- 

 trees by shutting them up for the first time in 

 November, a period of rest being absolutely neces- 

 sary. But provided he has plenty of houses in the 

 best possible condition for succession, he would 

 commence the first season towards the end of 

 December, in the second year two or three weeks 

 earlier, and so on until by degrees the trees w r ould 

 lose their leaves early and go to rest, while late 

 houses were yet carrying fruit. 



AYhere not more than two or perhaps three Peach- 

 houses exist in a private place, very early forcing is 

 by no means advisable, as the first crop would be 

 obtained at great expense and risk, and the other 

 one or two houses would not keep up the supply 

 until trees on open walls came into use. Under such 

 conditions the first day of January and the middle of 

 February would be early enough for the first and 

 second houses, and the last might be allowed to 

 come on quietly wdth full air and no more fire-heat 

 than would be needed for keeping out frost. 



Preparation of the Trees and House.— 



Having pointed out the danger of undue haste in 

 forcing the Peach, we will now refer to the different 

 operations and conditions which must be performed 

 and observed in its management from the time the 

 house is closed until the fruit is ripe, gathered, 

 and disposed of. The first house being considered 

 fit for forcing in December, preparations should 

 not be delayed beyond the middle of October: 

 three weeks earlier will do equally well if the trees 

 are leafless and at rest, if Peaches ever do rest. If 

 the house has been stripped for a few weeks for the 

 twofold purpose of refreshing the trees and borders 

 with rain and dew, and getting the lights painted, 

 see about having them put back in their places : but 

 on no account shut the house tip, otherwise, the 

 weather being warm through the day, some of the 

 flower-buds may begin to swell. Loosen all the 

 shoots from the trellis and perform the necessary 



pruning, be the mode of training extension or 

 restrictive. 



If the first, a careful clearance of old fruit-stalks 

 and unsatisfactory pieces that were missed at the 

 time the fruit-bearing wood was cut away will make 

 up the sum-total of pruning. Then wash all the 

 woodwork of the house and trellis with strong 

 soapy water, and paint if necessary. Also wash the 

 trees with lukewarm soapy water, using a rather 

 hard brush for scrubbing the old wood, and a softer 

 and smaller one for the young shoots. If the trees 

 have been free from spider and scale, the wash may 

 be made by whipping two ounces of soft-soap in a 

 gallon of w T ater ; but these pests having been trouble- 

 some, it can be used double the strength ; or four 

 ounces of Gishurst compound, thoroughly dissolved 

 in the same quantity of water (one gallon) , will be 

 found satisfactory. When washing the young wood, 

 be careful to draw the brush upwards with the buds 

 and never against them, as they are easily injured. 

 Carefully wash every bit of the young and old wood, 

 and repeat the washing wherever insects may have 

 gained a lodgment. If dressing of any kind is in 

 favour, apply it as soon as the trees are dry, but on 

 no account use it strong, as many trees are much 

 injured by the dressing, not unfrequently after they 

 have been made perfectly clean by the simple process 

 of cleansing with soap and water. Many people 

 now object to painting every bit' of wood, and so 

 hermetically sealing the pores in the bark, and 

 securing the larvae of insects against injury until the 

 time arrives for them to develop into life, w T hen the 

 trees are again started into growth. If a tree is 

 clean, leave well alone ; if it is not clean, wash the 

 young wood over and over again, and confine the 

 painting to the old shoots and branches, using six 

 ounces of Gishurst compound dissolved in a gallon 

 of water, to which a little strong finely- sifted loam 

 may be added to give it the consistency of paint. 

 If Gishurst is objected to, the good old recipe: 

 soft-soap, four ounces ; sulphur, eight ounces ; and 

 tobacco-water, one pint, may be used. Thoroughly 

 dissolve the soap, and work the sulphur into a paste ; 

 put them together, add four quarts of water, and a 

 little fine soil and cow-dung to give the mixture the 

 body of paint. "When all the trees are cleansed 

 sling them to the trellis until they are quite dry and 

 fit for tying-in. In the meantime wash the walls 

 with quicklime and sulphur, and keep the house well 

 ventilated. 



Tying-in is an operation that can be performed at 

 any time before the house is closed for forcing. The 

 main branches should be placed in position, loosely 

 at first, and altered as may be found needful, until 

 a pleasing and symmetrical framework has been 

 secured. Then with stout string tie each branch to 



