254 



CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING. 



Inarching, or Grafting by Approach (see 

 Vol. III., p. 13), is more or less employed for different 

 purposes, such as uniting branches, or trees, in rustic 

 work, and for picturesque effect. It is valuable in the 

 case of Vines, and some other troublesome subjects, 

 where other modes of grafting are difficult or im- 

 practicable. The principle is the same as in ordinary 

 methods, but instead of severing the scion from its 

 parent stem, both stock and scion are brought in 

 and kept close together, whether in pots or planted 

 out. If the latter, the two should have been planted 

 in the proper season, and when in requisite condition 

 should have a piece cut from each at that place 

 where they can readily be brought into close contact ; 

 the cambium layers coinciding as in grafting. Bind 

 them together and protect with clay as in grafting. 

 When appearances suggest that a union is taking 

 place, this may be greatly accelerated by ringing the 

 stem to be cut away just beneath the graft. The 

 whole energy of the returning sap will now be 

 directed into the permanent stock, and when it has 

 been ascertained that a thorough union has been 

 effected, the stem may be severed close beneath 

 the point of union. 



Budding. — The practice of budding is employed 

 for much the same purpose as grafting ; but the 

 mode of operation is somewhat different in minor 

 matters of detail, and except in the case of inarching 

 or grafting by approach, is performed at a different 

 season, namely, when growth is in active operation. 

 The same impediments, or natural obstructions, that 

 prevent a union between subjects widely removed in 

 the scale of relationship, or affinity, by the process 

 of grafting, are equally potent here, and although 

 some few cases may occasionally present themselves 

 where budding is more successful than grafting, it 

 may be due in a great measure to their histological 

 construction rather than their scale of affinity. A case 

 of this occurs in the "Walnut, where grafting in the 

 ordinary way is unprofitable, or impracticable, from 

 the little success attending it. Knight found, or 

 discovered, that besides grafting by approach, the 

 Walnut could be successfully budded by using small 

 buds, generally plentiful at the base of the current 

 year's shoots, and inserting them towards the top of 

 wood formed the season previous. 



The methods employed in the art of budding are 

 few, and, as in the case of grafting, one method, or 

 some slight modification of it, obtains a precedence 

 over all the others. This popularity is a result both 

 of the simplicity and the general efficiency of that 

 method. It is known as T -budding, from the 

 incisions that are made in the stock for the recep- 

 tion of the bud being of that shape. When the 

 transverse cut is made at the base of the perpendicu- 



lar one, the process is styled Inverted T -bud ding, 

 and its advantages will be discussed presently. 

 The same method is sometimes known by the 

 appellation of Shield-budding, from the shape of 

 the bud employed, and its attached piece of bark. 

 Having selected a branch, with more or less pro- 

 minent buds, of a tree which it is desirable to 

 propagate, with a sharp knife cut out a piece by 

 commencing half an inch below the bud, passing 

 inwards, upwards, and outwards at the same distance 

 above it. Remove the blade of the leaf belonging to 

 the bud, as that would tend to weaken, or even kill, 

 the latter by evaporating its moisture. The piece of 

 wood cut away with the bud should be carefully 

 removed by laying hold of it between the nail of the 

 thumb and the point of the knife. The condition of 

 the wood determines the season of budding. W f hen 

 the shoots of the current season have attained that 

 firmness which will allow the bark to part readily 

 from the wood, the operation may be successfully 

 performed. Make a transverse and longitudinal 

 slit through the bark of the stock at that point 

 where it is desirable to insert the bud. Holding the 

 latter by its petiole in the left hand, carefully raise 

 the bark of the stock with the thin end of the 

 handle of a budding-knife, and insert the bud 

 immediately. There are several important points to 

 be observed in order to insure the success of the 

 operation. In removing the wood from the bud 

 itself, avoid injuring the inner face of the bark, and 

 see that the root, or core, of the bud is not wrenched 

 out along with the wood, as that would cause failure. 

 At the same time the knife-handle must not be 

 wedged in between the bark and wood of the stock, 

 as that would inevitably injure the delicate tissue of 

 the cambium layer. Press the knife against the 

 inner face of the bark, or even lay hold of the latter 

 between the point of the knife and the thumb, and 

 merely raise it. The upper end of the shield of 

 the bud should be made to fit closely to the un- 

 disturbed bark at the top of the T- When the bud 

 has been gently put into position, close the bark of 

 the stock over it, and bind the whole closely over 

 with matting, leaving the point of the bud exposed. 

 The operation is now complete, and its success will 

 be largely dependent upon the quickness with which 

 it is performed, and the preservation of the delicate 

 tissues from the atmosphere. Diagrams will be 

 found under the Life-History of Plants, Roses, 

 Peaches, &c. 



The operation of Inverted T -budding is carried 

 out in a precisely similar manner, with the exception 

 of the transverse cut being at the base instead of at 

 the apex of the longitudinal one, thus J_. The bark 

 in connection with the bud should of course be cut to 

 correspond with this inversion of parts. A diversity 



