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CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING. 



rapidly when young in a high, temperature .and a 

 moist atmosphere, they require subsequently in- 

 tense light and very great heat to perfect the 

 maturity of the fruit. 



Soil. — The soil best suited is a yellow loam, and. 

 somewhat consistent, though not too adhesive. The 

 object should be to give the roots such a rich holding 

 loam as will engender abundant fibres, and retain 

 within its bulk a moderate latent moisture con- 

 stantly without the need of too frequent waterings. 

 The soil should be made very firm by being 

 beaten or trodden down all around each plant. 

 Furthermore, where great success, as regards size of 

 fruits, number, and highly-developed or finished 

 flavour, is to be secured, a goodly depth of such soil 

 is imperative. Cultivators err far more frequently 

 in having too shallow mounds of such soil beneath 

 their plants wherein the roots can freely and fully ex- 

 tend and ramify, than from most other causes. The 

 too common custom is to place mounds or ridges, 

 whereon such plants are to be grown, only eighteen 

 inches or so from base to apex. Whether grown 

 upon hot -beds or within span -roofed structures, 

 from two and a half to three feet depth of soil is, 

 therefore, very essential, and it will be well for all 

 who construct pits within such structures in the 

 future to provide for such goodly depth of root-soil. 



As regards the addition of manure to the soil, it is 

 never desirable in connection with hot-beds, or when- 

 ever grown upon fermenting materials whereon the 

 roots feed as suggested, to the future injury of the 

 fruit crop. When grown, however, over artificial 

 and hence dry heat, whether this consist of pipes or 

 flues, a small quantity of such as is thoroughly de- 

 cayed may with advantage be incorporated with 

 the soil. 



Atmospheric and Bottom Heat.— The 



latter should not exceed, indeed it should always be 

 maintained as near to 75° as possible. Were it 

 not for this degree of bottom heat, the Melon might 

 be grown in the open air in our climate in warm 

 seasons. By burying considerable quantities of fer- 

 menting materials in the soil, the hardier varieties, 

 such as Little Heath, have been successfully ripened 

 in favourable localities. Without such aids its 

 successful culture in the open air cannot be assured 

 beyond the forty-third parallel of latitude. Under 

 an able system of artificial culture, atmospheric 

 warmth ranges from 80° or 85° up to 100°. 



Any excess of moisture, and a somewhat confined 

 atmosphere during early forcing, engender mildew 

 upon the leaves and canker at the " collar " of the 

 plant — that is, the portion where stem and root meet. 

 It is safe practice never to water the collar, owing 



to the fact that moisture in immediate contact with 

 it aggravates the evil of canker. Neither should 

 the collar be over-shaded, as full sunshine seems to 

 be one of the best antidotes to canker. Every care 

 should be taken of this most vulnerable part of the 

 plant, as injury here leads to the loss of the crop 

 just as the fruit are approaching maturity. 



Sowing. — Seed -sowing for artificial culture 

 should not, under the most favourable circumstances, 

 be undertaken before the month of January in each 

 year, nor later than the month of April for the late 

 autumn crop. The time which intervenes between 

 the date of seed-sowing and the ripening of the fruit 

 is upon an average four months. Well-ripened seeds 

 should always be employed, and their merit is said 

 to be greatly enhanced when kept until two or three 

 years old, as they are considered better adapted for 

 fruit-bearing when so treated. 



Whether early or late crops are to be grown, every 

 preparation must be made to be ready for the young 

 plants in due time. These must be commenced, as 

 regards frame or pit culture, which is dependent on 

 fermentive materials, before the seeds are sown. 

 Sufficient stable manure, or fallen tree-leaves — they 

 do well mixed together — must be collected and placed 

 in a light conical heap to ferment, which will require 

 turning over twice at least subsequently to insure 

 dispersion of steam and all obnoxious gases, &c, 

 it may contain, when the bed must "be made precisely 

 as advised for Cucumbers. 



Seeds should be sown about three weeks or one 

 month before this or any other structure will be 

 ready to receive the young plants. Procure free 

 fibrous loam and well- decay ed manure, "break up very 

 fine, filling a 48-sized pot, or 32-sized, according to 

 the number of plants required, sow the seeds thinly, 

 and cover them with about their own thickness of 

 soil. From six to twelve seeds, according to the size 

 of pot chosen, may be sown in each, and plunge the 

 pot in a warmth of 80° to 85°. When the seeds 

 have germinated, and show the third or rough leaf, 

 procure more soil similar to the last, and 60- sized 

 pots, to pot them off into. With care, not to in 

 anywise injure the young roots, remove them from 

 the seed-pot, and having three-parts filled the small 

 pots with the soil, place two plants in each pot at 

 two opposite sides, filling the pots well up with the 

 compost, and pressing it down somewhat firmly. 

 Plunge the pots into bottom heat, and on the follow- 

 ing day give them a root- watering. Immediately 

 the second or third rough leaf is perceived to be 

 forming, and the point of a growing shoot observed, 

 pinch the latter off beyond such leaves. Water as 

 needed, and shortly the primary leaves will be seen 

 to develop shape and size, and at their axils young 



