THE MELON. 



319 



expanded, and with a dry centre. These are readily 

 discernible and more abundant than the female 

 "blossoms, having no embryo fruits attached. Eemove 

 the floral envelopes or corolla therefrom, and insert 

 the point or pollen boxes into the centre of the female 

 blossom, so fixing it that it remains there. By treat- 

 ing each female blossom thus, fertilisation will be all 

 but certain. During the time that the female flowers 

 expand, it is desirable to keep the inside of the struc- 

 ture or frame dry, which also assists this process. 



Fruiting. — In a few days the young fruits will 

 be seen to commence swelling, and it is an important 

 feature to treat the plants so that many female 

 blooms will expand together, "set" nearly together, 

 and " swell off " in unison. Should this not be 

 secured, the risk will be run of possessing only one 

 or two fruits upon each plant, it being found in 

 practice almost impossible to set other fruit after 

 one or more have taken the lead. 



Erom the moment these young fruits commence 

 to swell, return to the full sprinklings overhead and 

 root- waterings as necessary, and assist the plants in 

 maintaining the utmost health and vigour. When 

 the young fruits, frame or pit-grown, are about the 

 size of a pigeon's egg, place a piece of slate under 

 each to neutralise the damp effects of the ground, or, 

 as is often done, invert a small flower-pot near, upon 

 which to rest each. 



Pruning or thinning out branches and leaves, 

 stopping the points of young shoots, &c, are periodi- 

 cal attentions needing close study. The object in 

 view is to maintain as good a crop of finety-developed 

 leaves as possible without undue crowding, as upon 

 this fact rests all further success. The better plan 

 is to fix a certain day weekly upon which to attend 

 to this matter. The proper time of day to do this, 

 especially in connnection with frame or pit-grown 

 Melons, is immediately before the habitual afternoon 

 sprinkling and shutting up. Eemove the sashes 

 bodily. Pinch back all sub-lateral shoots beyond 

 the second leaf -forming. Eemove every symptom of 

 decayed leaf or growth, including any clusters of male 

 flowers, so arranging the vines that all leaves have 

 equal space and light. Take every possible care of 

 every leaf having a fruit at its axil, the loss of which 

 will either limit the size or quality of such fruit, 

 and in frames sometimes cause its loss by a decay of 

 the parts. The collar of the plant must likewise be 

 carefully treated, always keeping it dry, and should 

 canker form upon it, place a little fresh-slaked lime 

 around it. 



When it is observed that the fruits are three-parts 

 netted, or in the case of such as do not net, the rind 

 shows symptoms of maturing, withhold water from 

 the roots entirely ; and as the ripening proceeds, 



give slightly less air during the day, maintaining 

 this more limited quantity for half an hour later 

 during the afternoon. The foliage will at such a 

 stage be well able, being well matured and hardened, 

 to support the additional heat caused by the earlier 

 closing. Slight sprinklings must be given at the 

 later date, but they may be directed around the inner 

 side of the frame or structure, and just over the leaves 

 rather than upon the soil ; their object being to 

 cause atmospheric moisture only for the aid of the 

 leaves, and to deter the formation of red spider 

 and other insect pests. At such a stage give also a 

 slight additional quantity of night air, removing it 

 betimes in the morning, so as to insure a return to 

 the maximum warmth necessary at the earliest pos- 

 sible moment. 



When trellis-grown fruits which hang down at- 

 tain to about the size of a cricket-ball, sling them 

 by the aid of cross-strands of matting, or support 

 with wooden cradles. It is not desirable to remove 

 the whole of the strain from the vines, but to 

 neutralise it only. This until they approach the 

 ripening stage, w r hen their whole weight sTiould be 

 borne by the artificial supports. 



The general colour of the fruits, and a slight 

 cracking around the stem, show when fruits are 

 ripening, as also does the aroma given forth. It is 

 desirable to cut them off the vines with a portion of 

 stalk attached, removing the leaf attached, before 

 they become too ripe and are likely in natural process 

 to remove themselves from its hold. By cutting the 

 fruit before this occurs, and placing them in a cool 

 airy place, the flavour is enhanced. 



It is a too common error to keep Melon fruits too 

 long before using them. They are nearly perfect 

 when the stalks show a disposition to part from the 

 fruits, and should not be kept more than two days 

 after this occurs. It is better to cut them somewhat 

 prematurely, as imported Melons are cut, and to store 

 them until they emit a fragrant smell, than permit 

 them to fully ripen upon the plants, and not to use 

 them whilst good. 



"Varieties. — The following are a selection of ex- 

 cellent varieties of the Melon, from among numerous 

 sorts retained in the usual lists. Green-fleshed (along 

 with which white-fleshed varieties are classed) : — 

 Goodwood, Best of All, Bailey's Green-flesh, Carter's 

 Emerald, Golden Queen, Hardwicke Hybrid, Beech- 

 wood, Dell's Hybrid Green-flesh, Eastnor Castle 

 Greenflesh, Earl of Beaconsfield, Gilbert's Green- 

 flesh, Benham Park, Queen Emma, Netted Victory, 

 William Tillery, Dickson's Exquisite, and Horti- 

 cultural Prize. Scarlet-fleshed: — Blenheim Orange, 

 Cox's Golden Gem, Hero of Bath, Hero of Lockinge, 

 Little Heath, Bead's Scarlet-flesh, Scarlet Gem, 



