WATERING. 



83 



if so, the power of expansion and contraction possessed by 

 the fibres is either entirely lost or the circulation is weakly 

 and imperfectly carried on through a diseased organ. 

 When a plant therefore is transplanted, the roots must be 

 carefully examined and all the injured roots should be 

 cut oft before it is re-set, in order to force the plant to 

 throw out new fibres. 



With deciduous plants, especially trees and shrubs, it is 

 best to transplant when the leaves have fallen, that they 

 may not suffer from the effects of evaporation. November 

 and December are the best times for transplanting all 

 hardy plants, as even evergreens at that period require 

 less moisture and the branches are torpid, while the roots 

 continue active, and fresh ones are formed during the 

 winter to take the place of those injured by transplanting. 

 Half-hardy and tender plants should not be taken up 

 until the danger of heavy frost has passed, for when just 

 removed they are much more susceptible to injury during 

 severe weather. 



Shading is necessary in summer transplanting, if the 

 plant retains its leaves, unless in damp weather. This is 

 to diminish the evaporation, and the removal of a large 

 portion of its leaves is also advisable for the same pur- 

 pose. 



Watering is quite as obviously necessary in order to 

 supply the spongeoles with an abundance of food, that 

 the increased quantity imbibed by each may, in some 

 degree, supply their diminished number. A single copious 

 watering is better than more. 



As a general rule in transplanting, never bury the collar 

 of the root. Some exceptions exist, as cabbages, balsams, 

 and some other annuals, which will throw out roots above 

 the collar, and in peais on the quince, which must be set 

 above the place where grafted. In transplanting trees, 



