THE GRAPE-VINE. 



393 



and drive a stake seven feet long to each plant. Chestnut 

 charred at the end is very good ; but locust and cedar 

 make the most permanent posts. Tie the young vine to 

 the stake, remove all the suckers, and allow but one cane to 

 grow. Keep free from weeds, and cultivate as.before. 

 The next spring cut down the three buds, and the year 

 after to five, and this year train two canes instead of 

 one. The pruning should take place from November to 

 the last of February. The third or fourth year, according 

 to the strength of the vine, cut down the weakest cane to 

 a spur of two or three eyes, and select the best shoot of 

 the preceding year, cut it down to six or eight joints, bend 

 it over in the form of a hoop, and tie to the stake, or 

 fasten it to the adjoining stake in a horizontal position. 



PKUNING THE VINE. 



Fig-. 1. Vine at the end of the second year, from a cutting, or the first after a 

 Rooted vine is planted out. 



Fig. 2. Vine at the end of the succeeding summer. 



Fig. 3. Vine at the end of fourth from a cutting pruned m the bovir form. 



Fig. 4. Vine pruned after the renewal system. 



a Point where the shoots are to be cut off in pruning. 



b Places of removed shoots. 



c Bearing shoots. 



The bow form is the best. Training the vine in this man- 

 ner checks the flow of the sap, and causes the buds to 

 break more evenly, retarding growth, and increasing pro- 



