THE EOSE AXD ITS CULTrRE. 



n 



0"wii firmly against all comers. Their mere eleva- 

 tion imparts dignity to the Eose which crowns them, 

 and they can he converted into a noble tree-rose 

 within nine months or less of the time of planting. 



General Treatment of Standard Briars. 



— So soon as received trim and plant; if this is im- 

 possible, lay in by the heels so soon as received. 

 These briars have very few roots in the proper sense 

 of the word, and the few they have are mostly air 

 or sun-dried or frost-bitten before they reach the 

 cultivator. Hence the greater need of prompt at- 

 tention and planting. 



A thorough and proper pruning of standard 



Fig. 6. — Briar in its Natural State as 

 dug up from Hedge-row. 



briars must precede the j)lanting, and extend to the 

 roots as well as the tops. The former are often 

 represented by large pieces of underground stems 

 (Fig. 6). These may generally be shortened back to 

 within, three or foiu: inches of the root-stocks or boles. 

 The tops may also in most cases be shortened back 

 so as to leave the stem tolerably straight (Fig. 7). 

 All snags should also be cut or sawn clean off by 

 the stem. The best implements for this sort of 

 work are a small hand-bill and a handy pruning- 

 saw. 



Best Place for Briar Stocks. — To grow Dog- 

 rose stocks well, the soil should be equal to that re- 

 commended for Eose-trees. They have been accus- 

 tomed to endure hardness on banks and in hedge- 

 rows ; but in the budding- grounds they must have 

 something good to feed upon, if they are to form 

 strong foster-mothers for the coming Eoser. A nice 

 snug border in the kitchen garden suits them well. 



Distance to Plant Standard Briars.— 



A yard between the rows, and from six inches to a 

 foot from plant to plant, are the usual distances. A 

 better way is to plant two rows, the plants alternately, 

 not oj)posite, nine inches or a foot apart, and leave 

 a space of four or five feet between the dual rows. 

 This affords greater facility of access for disbudding, 

 budding, and other necessary operations among the 

 stocks. 



Pirm Planting. — In order to insure this and 

 to dispense with the need of stakes — and, indeed, 

 these are impossible on a large scale — the tempta- 

 tion is strong to plant too deeply. By thrusting 



Fig, 8. — Briar witli Eoot and 

 Top grown on towards 

 Buddable Condition. 



the root-stump into the earth a foot or so, and 

 treading the soil firmly aroimd its stem, the stan- 

 dard briar bears the wind with impunity. But on no 

 account should they be planted more than half that 

 depth, treading them in fiiTtily after being filled up. 

 There should always be two to plant briar standards 

 — one to use the spade, and the other to place and 

 hold up the briar until the earth makes it secure. 

 Amateurs who plant a moderate nimiber of briars 

 should stake each one, or run a rail attached to a 

 few tall posts along the line to keep the briars in 

 position, not only when j^lanted, but afterwards 

 when they have formed heads. 



Disbudding and the Removal of Suckers. 



— After planting, nothing more will be required till 

 the spring. So soon as the buds begin to appear, all 

 should be removed but two or three of the most 

 forward and best-placed on the briar standard. As 

 a rule these will be found.nearer the top of the briar. 



Fig. 7.— Briar witli Eoot and 

 Top Pruned for Planting. 



