GARDEN-POTS AXD POTTINa. 



115 



in shifting his plants determines his course hy root- 

 condition. If that is good, vigorous, and obvioii-sly 

 cramped, he gives a larger pot ; if otherwise, he not 

 unfrc([uently ]3uts it into a smaller one. There is no 

 resuscitating process so prompt and elfectual as this 

 in the case of many plants. Worms, had drainage, 

 indifferent or unsuitable soil, unskilled watering, 

 may have converted the root-runs into quagmires of 

 sour, putrid earth, in which the roots are sickening 

 towards death. Eemove the whole, wash the roots 

 clean if needful, as it often is, and re-pot in very 

 light, porous, sandy soil, or fine sand, placing the 

 roots in the smallest possible pot, and give such 

 extra nursing as advised after potting oii, and the 

 roots may be re-established in health and quadrupled 

 in numbers in a few weeks, and the plant saved. So 

 soon as this renovation is effected, the plant may be 

 re-shifted into a larger pot, and treated as advised 

 for othsrs. 



The time for shifting plants nmst be determined 

 b}^ condition, and with but little reference to the 

 calendar. At one time, however, the spring and 

 early summer months were mainly devoted to the 

 potting of plants. This was carried so far that 

 plants were shifted in April or May, whether they 

 wanted it or not. No doubt these general pottings 

 at such seasons suited the majority of plants ; hence 

 the practice sur%ives to this day. 



Accepting as an axiom, that no plant should be 

 pruned and potted at the same time, whatever its 

 condition, as such a double check hinders alike the 

 formation of roots and the growth of top, there 

 are three general conditions of plants favourable to 

 their re-potting or shifting. The first is soon after 

 starting; the second, in the middle of their growth; 

 and the last, just before their growth is ripened. 

 And these seasons, determined by condition, apply to 

 all plants without exception, whether hard or soft- 

 wooded, herbaceous or bulbous, exogens or endogens. 



Soon after starting, then, the bursting buds and 

 growing shootlets, overflowing wdth vital energy, 

 and having organisablo matter enough and to spare 

 to supx^ly all their local needs, are able to sj)are a 

 good deal of both to stimulate a freshly-disturbed 

 root into immediate activity — a point, as we have 

 already seen, of the utmost importance to the health 

 and strength of plants. Nor is this all ; hardly ha^-e 

 the roots been assisted by the growing tops to run 

 into the fresh composts, than the tops begin to draw 

 upon them for supplies, and this keeps them hard at 

 work. And these compound actions and reactions of 

 the growing tops are the great quickeners and sus- 

 tainers of root-activity, and this is the foundation 

 of robust health and plentiful produce. 



During the middle of their growth is also a capital 

 time to shift plants into larger pots. As the strain 



upon them for the development of more and larger 

 leaves or flowers increases, and their many roots have 

 ramified through and exhausted the soil, this is the 

 time to add a fresh supply. If this is withhold the 

 spongioles, or root-mouths, that have been hugging 

 closely and trying their strength in piercing through 

 the sides of the pots in search of pastures new and 

 richer in which to feed, are apt to become shrivelled 

 up and exhausted. And plants can no more feed 

 themselves without these open mouths than a gar- 

 dener can pot i)lants without hands. 



Finally, just as the ripening processes are well- 

 nigh completed is a good season to pot or shift plants 

 into larger pots. At that season the growing energies 

 of the plants seem to gravitate rootwards. During 

 the growing season the roots have ministered chiefly 

 to the other parts of the plant. Now they are about 

 to come in for their share, and hence the necessity of 

 enabling them to make room to receive the rich 

 stores of growing force which the vital and chemical 

 action of the aei'ial portions of plants, aided by the 

 ministrations of sun and air, rains, dews, and other 

 agents, is enabled to send them. 



As a matter of observation and experience, the 

 ripening time above ground is a season of abnormal 

 activity and rapid extension of the roots under 

 ground. The vital forces change their course rather 

 than lessen their energy, in the so-called " rest " of 

 golden autumn-tide. Hence, we find that towards 

 the close of the season of maturity is one of the \ery 

 best times for the shifting of many plants. 



It is needful, however, not to misapply these 

 general principles. They are applicable to the A-ery 

 letter to such plants as, for example, the Camellia. 

 So much is this the case that hardly any two growers 

 agree as to the best time to pot these plants. And 

 this, not because doctors differ so widely, but rather 

 that it matters hardly a feather's weight to the 

 plant which season is chosen, or whether, in cases of 

 exceptional vigour, all three are in succession, and 

 within the compass of six or nine months. 



Other points that may interfere with or alter the 

 time and mode of potting, are the character of the 

 plants, the purposes for which they are grown, and, 

 as already hinted, the condition and number of their 

 roots. No one would rigidly adhere to the same rules 

 as apx)licable to what may be termed permanent and 

 transient i)lants. Annuals and biennials would be 

 potted for different objects and purposes to triennial 

 and other plants. For examx^le, a Balsam or a 

 Cockscomb might need potting once a month, while 

 for a slow-growing Heath, a shift once in two years 

 might be almost too frequent. 



Purpose, again, largely controls potting times and 

 modes. In foliage plants, such as Anthuriums, 

 Marantas, Crotons, Caladums, 'Ferns, Palms, grown 



