TIIE VINE AND ITS FEUIT. 



175 



leaves when the buds are fairly on the move. If 

 applied earlier the system is abused, as new roots are 

 formed out of the stored-up sap contained in the 

 vines, and the latter break weakly in consequence. 

 Mid-season houses, which ripen grapes in June and 

 July, may also have a good covering of dry leaves to 

 prevent loss of waimth ; but fermentation is not ne- 

 cessary, as the strain does not fall on the vines until 

 awakening spring sets the roots in motion. When 

 any description of covering is applied to early 

 borders, great care should be observed in its re- 

 moval, as this is the operation which so frequently 

 brings covering into disrepute. 



If carefully examined, say in June, when the 

 grapes are ripe, the surface of a good border will 

 present the appearance of a sheet of tender rootlets, 

 to which sudden exposure is death. The covering 

 should, therefore, be removed piecemeal, four to 

 six inches being left as a mulching and protec- 

 tion until the wood is ripe in September, when 

 every particle must be removed down to the solid 

 staple of the border, preparatory to the autumnal 

 dressing of bone-dust and a thin layer of new loam. 



A steady smiace warmth being highly important, 

 a covering of some description, such as wooden 

 shutters, glass Hghts, or tai^aulin, should be placed 

 over, but not touching the fermenting material, to 

 protect it from rain and snow. 



Late houses may be thrown open as soon as the 

 grapes are bottled in December, when full exposure of 

 internal and external borders to the elements will do 

 more good than covering ; b^t they should be well 

 mulched with rotten manure when they are started in 

 the spring. 



Renovating Vine Borders.— In nearly aU 

 good grape-growing gardens, where fruit of the 

 finest quality is produced from year to year, the 

 cultivator can never say his work is finished. One 

 or other of his vineries, which have been producing 

 full crops, early or late, over a long series of good 

 and bad seasons, will gradually, sometimes suddenly, 

 show a decided railing off ia quality or quantity. 

 Something must be done to arrest the downhill 

 course of the vines, which may be perfectly sound 

 and healthy, but decidedly weak. The experienced 

 grower will at once make an examination of his 

 borders, which iri nine cases out of ten will be found 

 to have become inert and heavy, and no longer 

 capable of supphdng the food necessary for the 

 production of sound healthy wood and foliage, so 

 essential to the growth of good grapes. To root out 

 the vines and re-plant in a new border, means a 

 heavy outlay and the loss of a crop for two or 

 three years; but if he has followed the modem 

 practice of planting inside the house, and has pro- 



vided internal and external borders, renovation of 

 one or other of these may be performed over and 

 over again without the slightest risk to the vines, or 

 fear of losing a full crop of fruit. There are various 

 modes of renovating exhausted borders. Some re- 

 move the surface soil quite down to the roots and 

 replace it with fresh compost, similar to that 

 recommended for new borders ; but this is only a 

 temporary means of relief, as it does not improve 

 the condition or position of the lower roots, which 

 may have found their way into the drainage or 

 through some chink or crevice into the subsoil, 

 whence a supply of crude cold matter, which the 

 vines cannot assimilate, is being constantly forced 

 up, and is undoubtedly the cause of all the mischief. 

 The best method which long and successful experience 

 dictates, is first to decide upon the border to be taken 

 out and re-made with fresh compost. The next effort 

 must be the early maturing and disposing of the 

 crop ; as notwithstanding the fact that the work 

 may be performed at any period after the grapes are 

 cut and before the vines break again, the best time 

 is during the ripening of the wood and foliage. At 

 that time the buds are properly formed and the fully 

 developed, but immature foliage, is in the best con- 

 dition for again setting the roots in action after they 

 have been disturbed. As so much depends upon 

 gettiag the mutilated roots to form fresh spongioles 

 in the new soil, which during the summer or early 

 autumn months is naturally warm, no other 

 operation, be it never so pressing, should cause 

 delay, otherwise the sap will become comparatively 

 inactive, and incapable of aiding in this important 

 effort on the part of the \'ines. If internal and 

 external borders supplied no other advantage, it 

 must be conceded that they are of the greatest 

 value when renovating becomes necessary ; as one or 

 other of them can be taken out with impunity, 

 without in any way interfering with the quantity or 

 quality of the succeeding year's crop. 



Assuming then that the grapes have been cut by 

 the end of July, and the leaves are quite fresh and 

 green, throw a slight shade over the roof ; then com- 

 mence at the foot of the border by thi^owing out all 

 the old soil quite down to the drainage ; carefully 

 trace and preserve all the roots, which mr.st be kept 

 moist and shaded from the sun, otherwise they will 

 soon perish. When all the soil has been removed, 

 sling the roots in bimdles near the wall-plate, 

 syringe well, and shade. Examine the drainage, and 

 if not quite satisfactory, make it so by turning it 

 over ; then make up the new border, and carefully 

 re-lay the roots as the work proceeds. As nothing 

 succeeds like success, it may be well to direct atten- 

 tion to the following points. Use steel forks for 

 getting out the roots, and never allow the latter to 



