COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. 



185 



instead of coming to a sharp wedge at either end, 

 as in the case of the ordinary bud. But even this is 

 not essential, and some prefer buds for rooting with 

 the end surface wedge-shaped, the thicker end of the 

 wedges springing from half to three-quarters of an 

 inch below the base of the buds, and tapering to a 

 point half an inch beyond it. A thin paring of bark 

 taken off either side also exposes a large surface of 

 wounded bark or cambium to the contact with the 

 rooting material. This is most important, as it 

 invites a development of callus along both sides as 

 well as both ends of cuttings thus manipulated ; and 

 each atom of the callus is capable of emitting roots. 

 Hence buds thus prepared root all round and de- 

 velop a perfect network of fibrous roots as unlike 

 as well can be to the single or dual whipcord-like 

 samples produced by seedling briars or Roses. 



How to Root Rose-buds. — Prepare pots, 

 pans, or a bed as directed in our articles on Pkopa- 

 • GATiON. Thorough drainage being provided, pure 

 sand, or some free-rooting material, should be used 

 on the surface, which can hardly be made too hard 

 and firm. Place the buds, prepared as described, 

 on the surface, and press them firmly down, filling up 

 with pure sand until all are covered excepting the 

 upper surface of the bud- section, and the bud in the 

 centre of it. Water freely, and just before the water 

 disappears, gently tap the pot or pan on the bench 

 to consolidate buds and surface soil more perfectly. 

 Of course this cannot be done where the buds are 

 planted in beds. In placing the buds leave at least 

 an inch of clear space between any two buds at all 

 points. This will be wanted to give room for the 

 curious and most necessary development technically 

 known as " callus." This is produced along the ends 

 of the bud-section, between the bark and wood, and 

 also along the sides of the bark. It is neither stem 

 nor root, but something between the two, and the 

 source from which all roots proceed. So soon as it 

 is thoroughly developed the bud is safe, and will, 

 under fair treatment, form roots all round the sides 

 and ends of its outer extremities ; so that rooted 

 buds are furnished with a perfect network of fibres 

 at all points, and these of the best possible quality 

 for feeding purposes. 



If the bud starts into growth before this hap- 

 pens, it soon empties itself and the section of wood 

 and bark around it of all the food which they con- 

 tain, and it quickly perishes. On the contrary, if 

 the buds remain dormant till the callus is formed, 

 the sooner the buds break into leafage afterwards 

 the sooner will roots be produced. The demands 

 of the expanding leaves for more food quicken the 

 development of roots by the callus. The simplest 

 and best means of effecting these dual benefits is by 



keeping the tops' very cool, say in a temperature of 

 40° to 45°, and placing the buds in a bottom heat 

 ten or fifteen degrees in advance of the top. So 

 soon as the bud-section's callus and roots begin to 

 be formed, the tops may be pushed on in the same 

 temperature as the roots. For after this stage the 

 faster the tops grow the faster also the roots, and 

 the two keep up a neck-and-neck race in the build- 

 ing up of a vigorous Rose-plant. 



Potting off. — So soon as the plants are fairly 

 rooted they should be potted off singly, and kept in 

 close and genial quarters till established. They 

 may then either be grown into plants in the 

 green-house, close pit, or frames, or planted out of 

 doors, so soon as they are gradually hardened off ; 

 and finally planted out of doors in the autumn. 



Some cover Rose-buds from the first with a bell- 

 glass, and subject them to a high temperature and 

 a semi-satui'ated atmosphere. But tnis course is 

 seldom successful, while that last described seldom 

 or never fails. 



COMMON GARDEN FLOWEES. 



ADOmS AND CANDYTUFT. 



The Adonis is one of the smallest families in 

 the great and beautiful order, Ranunculacem ; and 

 the two perennial species, vernalis and Pyrenaica, 

 used to be common plants in most old-fashioned 

 gardens. Adonis vernalis is one of the earliest as 

 well as most showy flowers of the early spring, 

 blooming in early seasons in March, and in or- 

 dinary ones early in April. It rises to a foot or 

 more in height, and the rich golden crops of 

 flowers look all the more rich and striking as they 

 stand up on the elegantly-cut sessile foliage, some- 

 what resembling that of a very light green carrot at 

 a distance. It is perfectly hardy, as its native home 

 is contiguous to the snow-line on the European Alps ; 

 and hardly have the snows passed away when the 

 Spring Adonis springs forth and blooms, covering, 

 where it abounds, the mountains with gold, and 

 affords a brilliant contrast to the vernal blue 

 gentians that carpet the base-lines of the Adonis. 

 Though it thrives on snow-water, with its roots 

 running in the well-drained debris of the residuum 

 of rocky waste, yet few plants are more sensitive 

 to cold soils or wet bottoms than the vernal Adonis. 

 Under such untoward conditions the light green of 

 the leaves becomes almost yellow, and the crop of 

 fine cups that crowns them with beauty disappears. 



The best place for these plants is a warm nook 

 or corner in a cosy old-fashioned kitchen or other 



