THE YIXE AST) ITS FRUIT. 



305 



carry. AU lateral shoots formed on the previoiis 

 year's "wood should he pinched oil to a single bnd, as 

 iaFig. 15 at a, and any loose hark removed, when they 

 may be well washed with soap and water, and 

 dressed with Gishurst compound, as in the preceding 

 season — that is, if spider has put in an appearance ; 

 otherwise, the Gishurst may he dispensed ^-ith. as 

 insecticides are of no use where there are no insects 

 to kill. As the Tines have as yet only three feet of 

 internal, and a like ^vidth of external border, an ad- 

 ditional two feet may be added to each side while 

 there is yet time for the points of the roots to make 

 fresh spongioles. If the di-ainage. as well as the 

 border, is made piecemeal, add suitable widths of 

 broken brick, then cover ^dth turf, grass side do^^Ti- 

 wards ; use turf for retaining walls, and make up 

 with good turfy loam, to which the usual quantity 

 of bones, lime rubble, and other materials, which 

 •^"ill sustain the roots after the fibre has gone, must 



Fig-. 15. — Stopping. 



"be added. Before making the addition, pick a little 

 of the old tuxf walls away with a hand-fork ; take 

 the points off any strong protruding roots, to make 

 them throw out more hard fibres ; make up the new 

 compost in a way that it will adhere to the old 

 border, and cover the outside portion with plenty of 

 fresh stable litter. Ha \ing cleansed the house tho- 

 roughly, wash the walls with quicklime and a little 

 sulphur, top-dress the border, but defer mulching. 



Third and Fruiting Year. — Having decided 

 upon the period at which the "sines under treatment 

 shall give ripe fruit, the house should bo shut up 

 nearly, if not quite, six months in advance of that 

 time — say on the 1st of January, to have grapes fit 

 to cut in June— and so on for successional crops of 

 early and mid-season grapes. The latest house 

 should not. however, be allowed to remain inactive 

 20 



after the first week in March, as all winter grapes 

 should be thoroughly ripe by the first week in Sep- 

 tember, otherwise much fire-heat will be needed to 

 ripen up the fruit and wood, and even then it is very 

 doubtful if the grapes will not begin to shrivel as 

 soon as the leaves fall from the "s-ines. Xow, as this 

 condition is fatal to the successful bottling of late 

 grapes, and time, both at the beginning and end 

 of forcing, is a most important consideration in 

 la^TJig on colour and finish, young maiden vines, 

 which do not respond so readily as old ones, should 

 always have plenty of time allowed to commence 

 aud finish their growth. Moreover, it is a well- 

 known fact that three-fourths of the early grapes 

 used in this country are cut as soon as they are 

 black, or as black as they ever would be ; but they 

 are not ripe, and the first bunches bear no compari- 

 son to the last, a fair proof that time is of much con- 

 sequence, at least where quality is the test of merit. 



Therefore, assuming that the vigorous young canes 

 which have been resting since the middle of October, 

 ^ith their points dra"«-n down to the surface of the 

 border, to equalise the sap and so help the lowest 

 and least prominent buds forward, were shut up at 

 the time mentioned, the first fortnight may be de- 

 voted to preliminaries, but no fire-heat will be 

 needed unless the temperature falls below 4:5®, 

 neither Avill ventilation be required. After that 

 period, a minimum of 50®, with a rise of 5® by 

 day, will suffice, with regular syringing, until the 

 buds begin to break, when it may be graduaUv 

 raised to 60® at night, v,-ith a rise of 10® 

 from solar and fire-heat by day. At these tem- 

 peratures, the house containing Hamburghs and 

 varieties requiring Hamburgh treatment may remaiu 

 imtil the shoots have run out three or four inches, 

 when a further rise of 5° will sufiice, until the 

 gTapes come into flower. Many people give Ham- 

 burghs a minimum heat of 70®, and Muscats 75®, 

 when they are setting, but the roots being right, 

 they will set just as weU at 65® and 70® respec- 

 tively, with a rise of 10® to 15® by day. 



As bottom heat is of great importance, both in 

 starting the vines and setting the fruit, some kind 

 of material should be applied as soon as the buds 

 begin to swell, to raise the temperature of the roots 

 to about 60® or 65®. In wooded districts, where 

 oak or beech leaves can be obtained, a good bodv of 

 these placed along the front of the internal and ex- 

 ternal borders, and a few on the surface, will bo 

 found invaluable, as they give off a continuous mild 

 moist heat, favourable to the swelling and breaking 

 of the buds, and so reduce the necessity of constant' 

 firing and incessant syringing. "Where borders are 

 made piecemeal, as has been suggested, the areas 

 left for the reception of future additions of compost 



