CALIFORNIA AVOCADO ASSOCIATION 



29 



to be necessary during the early development in California, is no longer 

 followed, as it has been fully demonstrated that the field-grown tree pro- 

 duces a better stand in budding and a decidedly more vigorous tree when 

 transplanted to the orchard. 



There are many individual ideas regarding the budding of avocado 

 trees, the selection of budwood, and the subsequent care after the bud 

 is inserted. No doubt some of the things practiced today will not be in 

 use ten years from now. The following are my methods which I believe 

 agree closely with other propagators who have made a study of this branch 

 of the work. 



Budwood of the diiferent varieties is not alike. In some kinds a bud 

 which is slightly broken open can be used, while in others this advanced 

 bud is sure to be unsuccessful; therefore it is necessary to become familiar 

 with the wood to be used and learn which buds grow the best in each 

 variety. In general, it is desirable to select a plump, mature bud which 

 seems ready to start into growth. Early in the spring this wood is 

 obtained from the last growth of the previous year, and later in the sea- 

 son from the new branches. This new growth must become fairly mature, 

 which usually requires from six to ten weeks. Very little success is 

 obtained in using budwood from the soft tips. 



If possible, cut a shield bud not under an inch and a half in length, 

 leaving a small piece of wood attached. It is best to leave a short piece 

 of the leaf stem to push on while inserting the bud. This also protects 

 the bud from the wrapping. The common T-shaped cut is made, being 

 careful not to break the bark in placing the bud. The sap must be flow- 

 ing freely so that the bark separates readily or the work will be a failure. 



Waxed tape is generally used, although some propagators are using 

 plain tape or cotton string with good results. The bud must be tied ex- 

 tremely tight, being careful to leave the eye exposed; it is also well to 

 secure the wrap by slipping the end under the last loop, as many buds 

 are lost by a slight spreading of the bark. At the end of three weeks, 

 a second wrapping of plain cloth is required to allow the proper expan- 

 sion and still hold the bark from spreading away. This in turn can be 

 removed at the end of four weeks. 



The seedling tops are cut back gradually to start the bud into growth, 

 always allowing a few leaves to remain to aid in keeping up the flow of 

 isap above the bud. The avocado will not stand the complete topping, so 

 often practiced in citrus work. The bud should be at least 6 inches high 

 and contain some mature wood before the entire stubbing can be made. 

 This is most satisfactory if practiced through the cool months of spring. 



After the bud is started, it should be tied with raffia every few weeks 

 in order to make a straight trunk. The seedling top can be used to good 

 advantage in this work until the bud is large enough to require staking. 



The suckers and branches should be kept off until the tree reaches a 

 height of 24 to 30 inches, when it will generally form a perfect head of 

 four or more branches. In some cases it may be necessary to pinch out 

 the terminal bud to force this branching at the proper place. Stock grown 

 in this manner soon shades itself and makes a beautiful, well-shaped tree. 



