30 



1916 ANNUAL REPORT 



Transplanting to Orchard. — Avocados are best removed from the 

 rajrsery during the spring months. In preparing the trees for balling it 

 is essential to trim off about one-half of all well-branched stock, and in 

 some cases to remove part of the remaining foliage, or cut the leaves in 

 half. So far but little success has come from transplanting bare roots, 

 while trees balled with plenty of earth have started into new growth in 

 a short time. It is important to harden off the stock in a lath-house with 

 the roots packed in damp shavings for ten days before planting. 



General Orchard Notes. — Most of the trees in orchard plantings up 

 to the present time are from 20 to 30 feet apart. The oldest demonstra- 

 tions of budded stock in California are about five years of age, and at this 

 early stage show a spread of from 10 to 15 feet. It is impossible to say 

 ji'St how much space a mature, budded tree will require. Certain varieties 

 show 'a very marked difference in growth, and it is quite probable that 

 some may require twice as much space as others. 



In preparing the holes it is well to dig at least 2 feet deep and as 

 much in width, breaking in the sides so that the young roots have plenty of 

 loose soil in which to start. Plant a little deeper than the tree stood in 

 the nursery, leaving the bud-union slightly above the surface as precau- 

 tion against decay, and consequent disease at this point. Water must 

 follow the planting closely and be supplied several times during the first 

 nionth; the best results have been obtained from irrigating twice each 

 month during the warm part of the first year. The mature tree is ex- 

 pected to require about the same amount of irrigation as our citrus groves 

 receive. 



It is best to stake the trees from the start; the new growth is gen- 

 erally toO' much for the young trunks to support in a strong wind. 



Some protection from the sun is one of the most essential things to 

 bear in mind. Until the bark has turned completely brown the sun will 

 bum it so badly that the scar is hard to cover. All kinds of burlap shades 

 are used for this purpose, also newspapers and manufactured tree pro- 

 tectors. Some of us are using with success, a whitewash made with salt, 

 tallow and quicklime. It must be fairly heavy and is applied with a brush 

 to the south side of the trunk and exposed branches. After the tree is 

 two years old it will usually shade itself. 



If frost protection is considered necessary, any of the methods used 

 in our citrus groves will be found satisfactory. Young trees are often 

 v/rapped in burlap or corn-stalks during the first two winters. This should 

 be removed as early in the season as possible, on account of a mildew 

 which sometimes forms during the rainy season. 



Cultivation. — The ground should be kept in a loose condition by culti- 

 vation after irrigation, although it is not good to work the ground very 

 deep close to the tree, so as to disturb the young roots. A good mulch 

 will both supply shade for the roots and help keep a more constant supply of 

 moisture. This should be removed or worked into the ground before the 

 winter rains start. 



Fertilizer. — So far but very little fertilizer has been required, and 

 that supplied has generally been barnyard manure. Bone or blood will 

 produce excellent growth, but what effect they have on fruit production has 

 not been demonstrated. 



