lavender, scarlet, mauve, purple and white. These flow- 

 ers glorified this Southern garden for weeks before the 

 roses bloomed. 



The anemone bulbs are strange, flattish looking and 

 peculiar. One finds it almost impossible to discover which 

 is the top or which is the bottom. There are a few fibrous 

 things growing on the top, which look like roots but are 

 really the beard. Avoid confusion by planting them on 

 their sides. Planted in late May or early June they will 

 bloom in July. Plant three inches deep and six inches 

 apart. Mix a little sand in the soil as you plant to make 

 the bulbs swell and expand, place in damp sand or even 

 in a pail of water for two or three days before planting. 

 By this treatment they will become several times the size 

 they were in their dry state, besides being made easier to 

 handle. Can you not picture a border of the St. Brigid 

 anemones with the dwarf deep blue Delphinium Chenesis? 

 Don't confuse these bulbous anemones with the tall grow- 

 ing herbaceous Japanese anemones. If you are not famil- 

 iar with both, don't fail to study them. 



You realize, do you not, amateur gardeners, that a 

 border of bulbous anemones will not detract from the 

 border of dwarf hybrid polyanthus roses you may have 

 bordering your rose bed or garden, because when the pol- 

 yanthus roses are at their best most of the anemones will 

 have bloomed. Only an occasional flower here and there 

 will remain. The foliage of the anemone may be cut to 

 within a few inches of the base; the few inches should 

 be allowed for the ripening of the bulbs. Where it is not 

 practical to leave the bulbs in the ground until the next 

 Spring they may be taken up and stored in the same way 

 as the canna and gladiolus. 



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