May, 1914 



THE GARDEN AND FIELD. 



535 



one pari peat to four o{ soil, and one 

 part peat to I'iglit of soil. The plants 

 had been brought from Kew for mem- 

 bers of the Club to see, and in every in- 

 stance both root and stem growth of 

 those growing in the peat-charged soil 

 was very much better than that of those 

 grown in ordinary soil. Mr. Watson 

 states that he had no doubt whatever 

 that the prejiarcd peat, when added to 

 the soil, had a highly benelicial effect on 

 the plants. He also stated that when 

 used at its greatest strength, i.e., one part 

 of peat to two of soil, it had no in- 

 jurious effect on vegetation, yet the one 

 part of peat to eight of soil mixture 

 gave just as good results. 



The other experiment, discussed at a 

 recent meeting, has been conducted hy 

 Mr. Peter Lees, the well-known autho- 

 rity on golf greens. Apparently Mr. 

 Lees has been using this prepared peat 

 at the rate of 3 oz. per square yard as a 

 top-dressing to badly worn or thin 

 greens, with a result that is little short 

 of marvellous. Not only was new top 

 growth made in abundance, but roots 

 also of a fibrous and far-reaching char- 

 acter were formed. If this were all, it 

 would seem that we have a panacea for 

 all the troubles that beset the grower 

 of plants. But Dr. Vockler rather put 

 a wet blanket on the enthusiasm of those 

 present when he asked the pertinent 

 question whether the benefit was due to 

 the nitrogen-fixing bacteria or to the 

 plant food that peat naturally contains, 

 and which would be rendered available 

 by eliminating humic acid and by ster- 

 ilisation, and to the mechanical effect 

 that peat would have upon soil used 

 in the proportions named. Dr. Keeble, 

 who also had something to say on tlie 

 subject, supported Dr. Vockler's state- 

 ment that probably sterilisation of peat 

 by steam would have a greater beneficial 

 action upon it than the inoculation with 

 nitrogen-fixing bacteria. 



The question of cost in producing this 

 prepared peat was raised by several 

 members, but on this important point 

 Professor Bottomley would Qot express 

 an opinion. If it can be producel 

 cheaply — which we very much doubt — 

 it will certainly prove a boon to the 

 gardener, no matter whether its bene- 

 ficial action arises from the natural 

 manure that the peat contains or 

 from the nitrogen-fixing organisms. 

 Meanwhile, we must wait and see.. 



I absolutely 'refuse to take second 

 place with any remedy (no matter 

 what price) for healing Burns, 

 Boils, SoOes, Cuts, etc., or Bron- 

 chitis in Children. 



(Signed) BATES' SALVE. 



Weeping Roses. 



- I'roni "Tlio (Jurden.'' 



Weeping I\osc^ are so beautiful in the 

 j^arden that a few general notes upon 

 liieir cultivation may be serviceable to 

 amateurs. The name is comprehensive 

 but applicable, though one might as 

 fairly describe them as shower Roses, 

 seeing that the long, pendulous shoots 

 when fiower-laden form, present, per- 

 fect cascades of bloom. The best stocks 

 for forming weeping standards are those 

 of the Polyantha or Dog Rose; the lat- 

 ter is the common briar. These should 

 he straight and strong, averaging 10 

 feet to 12 feet in height. Plant the 

 stocks in any good garden soil and stake 

 firmly and well above the head ; then 

 shorten the stocks to 8 feet or 10 feet 

 and tie securely. As the buds begin to 

 swell in spring, remove all except those 

 selected for forming the shoots to bud 

 into, and any growths which show from 

 the roots must be carefully pulled out, 

 as cutting with the knife tends to in- 

 crease suckers. When the Briar shoots 

 begin to lengthen they must be support- 

 ed by cross stakes securely fastened to 

 the upright pole ; this prevents any da- 

 mage being done to the head by winds. 

 December is the best month for insert- 

 ing Rose buds into the stocks ; generally 

 from the middle to the end of the month 

 will find the sap running freely ; and 

 while the shoots are in this condition 

 success can almost be guaranteed. Select 

 plump buds ; those near the base of a 

 shoot are preferable to those from the 

 top, as the latter are too soft, but the 

 former soon "take" and ultimately de- 

 velop strong growths. A fortnight after 

 budding the ligatures may be loosened 

 to examine the buds, and if these are 

 progressing favourably the budding cot- 

 ton or rafifia is replaced, not tied quite 

 so tight, and in four or five weeks this 

 can be dispensed with entirely. At this 

 season the pole which supports the stock 

 should be made perfectly rigid, as also 

 the cross stakes, after which no further 

 attention is necessary until the plants are 

 pruned, by cutting the Briar shoots back 

 to the inserted buds, if this has not been 

 done previously, and when these have 

 grown long enough they are tied to the 

 cross supports, to prevent rupturing, un- 

 til the union becomes thoroughly har- 

 dened. 



Good examples of weeping Roses may 

 be had in two years by this system, pro- 

 vided a good foundation is laid, first by 

 selecting strong Briars, then securing a 

 limited number of strong breaks from 

 the stocks, and by employing good sound 



buds. Afltr two seasons' growth they 

 can be permanently placed in the gar- 

 den. Use a good stout painted iron 

 stake to support the stem, to which by 

 four or six arms a light iron hoop is at- 

 tached; this ensures perfect rigidity, 

 while it materially assists in developing 

 the drooping habit. The foregoing notes 

 will be most serviceable to amateurs 

 who can procure and bud their own 

 stocks ; others must, necessarily, buy 

 their plants ready formed through the 

 channel of trade growers. The posi- 

 tions in which weeping Roses become 

 effective are well-nigh innumerable and 

 vary in almost every garden. It is best 

 to avoid positions where any depression 

 marks the ground, I)ut a slight eminence 

 increases the weeping effect; angles of 

 walks or those formed by shrubberies 

 are suitable, while central positions or 

 marked points within the Rose garden 

 may gain both in variety and pictures- 

 queness by introducing standards in 

 weeping form. 



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